This 2017 bottle might be superficially innocuous, but the nuance was poignant and keenly felt.
For one, the production of this 2017 vintage is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship behind Durfort Viviens. It comprises 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc, a blend designed to create a stylistically ripe and concentrated wine. The wine is made through manual harvesting, fermentation in batches (partial wood and partial concrete; malo in vat; ageing in 40% new French oak), and very high vine density. With 7000 vines per hectare, it has the highest density in the Commune of Margaux, compared to Chateau Margaux next door.
Durfort Vivens, a Second Growth from the Margaux appellation, holds a significant place in the world of wines. Its historical recognition by Thomas Jefferson, a figure of immense importance in the wine world, as the head of the Second Cru, a position confirmed by the 1855 Classification, adds depth and respect to its story. This classification also noted its close ranking to Chateau Margaux, further enhancing its prestige and value.
Although Durfort Vivens has always had a limited market, it has steadily improved since the 2009 vintage, which is a promising sign. Previous owners from the 1960s to the 1980s, however, could not update this wine with the contemporary style, which is one of the reasons why this wine should be more well-known. The combined estates of Margaux and Durfort Vivens had created a certain ambiguity harmful to the latter, dubbed "Second Wine of Chateau Margaux" and not Second Cru of Margaux, which was probably another reason. Also, Lucien Lurton, also of Brane Cantenac, had parcels of the best land that belonged to Durfort Vivens, which added to its detriment.
The quality of Durfort Viviens 2017 is interpreted here through the tasting summaries of some famous tasters:
• 95JS: Durfort Viviens 2017 is a biodynamically grown wine with redcurrants, flowers, and cedar aromas. It leaves a fresh impression with its vibrant acidity, fresh flavours, and sustained finish, making it high-quality.
• 95V: This wine is rich and explosive with tremendous intensity. It has sweet floral notes, cedar, mint, and spice that add nuance. Although the severe frost took 35% of the production, the Durfort-Vivens is marvellously rich.
• 95WE: With a firmly tannic but rich structure and acidity, this wine is a pure berry flavour that shines through its ripe black fruit tones. It is best to drink from 2024.
• 93Decanter: This biodynamic wine has impressive depth to the cassis fruits, beautiful balance, great persistence, and evident fruit.
Be the connaisseur. Buy this wine; appreciate its actual value!
If you like St. Julien wine, you might want to try Mount Mary Quintet. The 2006 Mount Mary Quintet, in particular, is an excellent choice. I tasted it a few years ago at the Hong Kong Wine Society, which left a lasting impression on me. This wine is elegant and sophisticated, especially with two upcoming tastings. According to wine expert Jeremy Oliver, this wine has received an impressive 97-point rating. Oliver praised the wine's "terrific balance and focus" and smoky aroma of dark berries and plums, along with subtle notes of mushrooms, minerals, and cedary oak. Robert Parker awarded this 2006 vintage with 94+ points.
Delicate, melted tannins, subtle notes of dried herbs, and hints of briar and undergrowth accompany the wine's dark cherry, plum, and berry flavours were what we wrote on my tasting notes. The acidity is tightly knit, and the finish is exceptionally long. The wine comprises 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, and small amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot, with the 2006 Quintet aged in barrels for 22 months. Thirty per cent of the barrels are large format, and only 30% are new oak.
Winemaker Rob Hall explained that John Middleton preferred the wine to have an alcohol content of around 12.5%, which can be challenging while still getting the phenolics ripe. However, Mount Mary managed to produce a modest 12.9% alcohol content. To J Middleton, the wine's colour is deep garnet, and it has restrained aromas of cassis, dried Mediterranean herbs, graphite, and loam, with a touch of cardamom and cloves. The wine is light to medium-bodied, with high acidity and medium-firm, finely-grained tannins. It is still tight-knit and needs to be aged for 2-3 years before opening. After that, it will continue to evolve over the next 8-10 years and be kept until 2024+.
Overall, Mount Mary Quintet 2006 is an exceptional wine worth trying.
Experience the taste of luxury with Chateau Senejac 2013- a delicious and well-balanced wine perfect for any occasion. Our recent tasting(the 5th one) of this wine on a sunny Saturday afternoon in April 2024 was a delight. With a deep ruby colour and no signs of ageing, it had a fragrant aroma of dry purple and red flowers. The taste was a delightful mix of fresh red, blackcurrants, and dark cherries, with a slightly dusty, meaty, cedary nose and a touch of wood spice. The palate was round, easy, and complete, with a well-balanced flavour that led to a medium finish, reflecting the grapes' characteristics and fruit length.
Chateau Senejac 2013 is a humble CB classification and origin but is less complete than in 2012 and not as intense as in 2009. However, it is slightly fresher and has intensity re-designed by creating certain complexities in blending 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. It is oak fermented and nurtured in French oak for 15 months, where 33% is new. The grapes are handpicked and sorted, and the vines are 45 years old, providing good economies of scale. This wine is from an excellent vintage with outstanding balance, structure, and phenolic ripeness and is stylistically akin to a mature Arsac Margaux. The best part is that it has been aggressively priced low yet shouts quality for the class. It has received a top score of 89 points Anthocyanes - Yohan Castaing.
Indulge in the luxury of Chateau Senejac 2013, an improved wine for those who appreciate quality and balance. Its delicious taste and excellent value make it the ideal choice for any wine enthusiast.
We maintained that as a humble CB classification and origin, Chateau Senejac 2013 is not as complete as 2012; it is slightly fresher and has intensity re-designed with creating certain complexities in blending 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot to start. It is oak fermented and nurtured in French oak for 15 months, where 33% is new. Grapes handpicked and sorted. Vines are 45 years old; sufficient production provides good economies of scale. From an excellent vintage with outstanding balance, structure, and phenolic ripeness, this wine shouts quality for the class and is stylistically akin to a mature Arsac Margaux. That's good because this wine has thus been aggressively priced low at HK $183@!
Our upgraded score is DD92. The top score is decent at 89 points Anthocyanes - Yohan Castaing.
