The Kracher Trocken Beerenauslese(TBA) vertical tasting, with the following line-up, is unforgettable.
Kracher TBA No 3 Scheurebe1998, RP95
Kracher TBA No 4 Welschriesling 1998, RP95
Kracher TBA No 7 Chardonnay / Welschriesling 1998, RP94
Kracher TBA No 5 Muskat Ottonel 1998, RP96
Kracher TBA No 9 Chardonnay 1998, RP96
Kracher TBA No 11 Welschriesling 1998, RP96
Kracher TBA No 4 Muskat Ottonel 1999, RP95
Kracher TBA No 7 Chardonnay / Welschriesling 1999, RP96
Kracher TBA No 8 Welschriesling 1999, RP96
Kracher TBA No 6 Grand Cuvee Nouvelle Vague1999, RP96
Kracher TBA No 3 Chardonnay 2000, RP94
Kracher TBA No 5 Scheurebe 2000, RP96
Kracher TBA No 6 Grand Cuvee Nouvelle Vague 2000, RP96
Kracher TBA No 6 Scheurebe 2002, RP95
Kracher TBA No 12 Scheurebe / Welschriesling 2002, RP 98
Kracher TBA No 4 Scheurebe 2004, RP94
Kracher TBA No 6 Grand Cuvee Nouvelle Vague 2004, RP95
Kracher TBA No 7 Grand Cuvee Nouvelle Vague2005, RP 94
Kracher TBA No 9 Scheurebe 2005, RP95
Kracher TBA No 8 Welschriesling 2005, RP97
Kracher TBA No 10 Chardonnay 2005, RP96
This is a diverse and fully mature array in verticals comprising vintages(1998, 1999, 2000, 2002, 2004, 2005) of precious, botrytised wines showing the unbeatable value of the Kracher estate - comparable to Cru level Sauternes with these sorts of critics' ratings have prices starting in thousands of dollars. Yet the Kracher TBAs add to the flights’ Riesling-like dimensions with even more sweetness, fruitiness, higher density, ‘freshness’ and ‘cleanliness’, and lower alcohol strength on palate. All bottles consistently smells of honey, white raisin, and above all peach and apricot essence. They are virtually gelatinous and, amazingly, not at all cloyingly sweet on the palate, on the contrary its rapier penetration of a finish is only possible thanks to the level of acidity that pushes residual sugar off the radar screen and leaves this taster totally enervated. Some CO2 palpable trapped on the thick palate! The quality of these wines is not containable by any scores!
Unrestricted to Sauternes’ 3-grape paradigm, these Kracher TBAs reflect grape individuality- the Scheurebe gives more racy fruit, the Welschriesling unique acidities, the Muskat Ottonel vapidness and power, and the Chardonnay citrus with stone fruit. Finally, Nouvelle Vague(actually 60% Chardonnay and 40% Welschriesling) reminds us about the heavenly style of Scandinavian Song Group!
The memory of this vertical is vivid not only because of value and high cost performance: we felt as if we were meeting with History of the Alois Kracher, Senior and Junior, making stunning nectars that captured the imagination against all odds, while dealing with poverty and Nazi Germany and a host of other hurdles. And today, his grandson Gerhard(he did not make the wines we tasted) has kept up the tradition, making beautiful wines that rival the very best in Sauternes and Tokaji while maintaining much lower prices.
That Kracher was the recipient of several prizes from various sources for best Austrian wine or vinery of the year, Sweet wine maker of the year and such, including "Winemaker of the Year" by the London-based Wine Journal six times is another reason why we feel so Intense with this tasting.
My MW student career started in 2007 in a class in Burgunland, at Rust off the Lakes, where these wines were produced. The place is as unforgetable as its wines.
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