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The 2003 vintage of Château Lanessan stands out from an unusually hot year, offering a mix of aromas and a juicy body for the age. With enticing notes of bacon, tar, and black pepper, it presents a full mouthfeel filled with black and red fruits, bacon fat, sweet spices, and cream. Remarkably, it maintains reasonable freshness with a sufficient red fruit finish and displays its age well.


On the palate, the wine reveals herbal and spicy elements, accompanied by a firm structure, medium body, and 13.5% alcohol. The well-integrated tannins and balanced tension make it a delightful choice, rated at 91 points (DD91) for its ease of drinking and appeal to a wide range of preferences. Château Lanessan offers great value for its quality.


Despite the challenging hot weather, it produced a classically styled Médoc red wine that is ready to enjoy now, reminiscent of wines from Château Gruaud-Larose and Château Lynch-Bages, albeit not as dense and slightly lighter.


This estate is a respected Cru Bourgeois property, holding a Grand Cru Hors Classé status, and is known for delivering Cru Classé quality at more accessible prices. The wine is vinified in traditional concrete vats, undergoes malolactic fermentation in a tank, and ages 12 months in a mix of new and used French barrels. The blend comprises 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Expert scores for Lanessan wines generally range from 86 to 92 points, providing wine lovers with an exceptional quality experience at a fantastic price.


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All vintages of this wine have a firm grip, characterised by a chalky and spicy finish. The complexity arises from a blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc, aged for three weeks in 60% new oak. Each vintage reflects qualities reminiscent of Pauillac, making them great for wine enthusiasts.


The 2004 vintage stands out for its vibrant bouquet of blackberry, blackcurrant, tobacco, and a hint of menthol. Pronounced cedar notes and grippy tannins lead to a dense, slightly meaty finish.


The 2013 Langoa Barton showcases fresh dark fruit, a perfumed bouquet, and hints of Asian spices. It features crisp red berry fruit and a balanced cedary finish with nuances of lemon tart.


The 2015 vintage has a deep ruby colour and an intense nose of red fruit, sous-bois, and tobacco. It offers a fleshy texture and chalky, silky palate, with a long finish that allows flavours to linger.


The youthful 2017 vintage exhibits fleshy richness with dark fruit and chocolate notes, balanced by cranberry and cherry. It ends with a smooth, refined finish, showing grippy yet delicate tannins and good power. I particularly enjoy the 2017 bottle.



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An elegant St Julien with fresh fruits (cherries and blackberries). The mid-palate gives very persistent wood spice, rounded with dark fruits and supported by gourmet tannins. Some complexities from the blend of four grapes: 57% Cabernet, 28% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.


Parker awarded 91 and almost gave a 92-94 range in another tasting, as it is just slightly overdone on the nose: blackberry, leather with a touch of cloves, but still complex and engaging. JR awarded it 17/20 and says it is correct in many aspects and notably dense with the 2004 trademark acidity—some velvet texture. Jancis Robinson awarded it 17/20, stating that it is correct in many aspects and notably dense with the trademark 2004 acidity and some velvet texture. We would award it DD94. The consensus on the palate is that it is medium-bodied, clean, and has good fruit extraction. It also possesses good acidity that cuts through the bright blackcurrant and cassis flavors, leading to an elegant finish.


However, we have identified some weaknesses in our 2004 assessment. The fruit was picked very late, which resulted in a slight lack of freshness. Additionally, the palate consistently exhibits rigidity.


Nevertheless, Clos du Marquis is much more than just the second wine of its more famous sibling, Château Léoville Las Cases. Its fruit comes from the vineyards of Petit Clos and the parcels outside the Grand Enclos (the source of the Grand Vin Léoville Las Cases) and has established itself among the best wines of the Médoc. It benefits from the same cultivation and vinification methods as the Grand Vin. Unlike most second wines, Clos du Marquis is made to be aged for years and offers a superb balance between elegance and grace.was picked very late, resulting in a slight lack of freshness. However, this is not for those who fancy bigger wines. Another weakness is the consistent rigidity of the palate.


Moreover, Clos du Marquis is much more than the second wine of its elder brother, Château Léoville Las Cases. Its fruit is from the vineyards of Petit Clos and the parcels outside the Grand Enclos (at the origin of the Grand Vin Léoville Las Cas) and has established itself among the best wines of the Médoc. Benefiting from the same methods of cultivation and vinification as the Grand Vin. Unlike most second wines, Clos du Marquis is made to be kept for years and offers a superb balance between elegance and grace.

This is a consolidation of the tasting and papers

written from 2006 to 2013. These write-ups had been with the orginal site Wine and Beyond, Yahoo, until the service stopped by Yahoo in September 2013.

 

For years I have been working with wines, either buying it, selling it to wine companies, lecturing and writing about it, and, not unimportantly, enjoying it with friends. If any of the articles on this site are worth reading it is due to my teachers, my mentors, my peers and friends, my students, and in particularly my editors who ignite in me a desire to communicate in wines.

 

Clinging to the trellis of wine, I started to get more and more involved with estates and winemakers, by supporting them with consultancy in communication and marketing. The more I spend my time outside Hong Kong, the more I sense a desire to be part of the international wine family.

 

Writing about wine represents a moment of reflection, curiosity, atitudes and a desire to analyse often hidden structures and history, in an effort to make the wealth of wine accessible to a targetted, and hopefully larger audience.

 

I am not sure if I can wine proivde more accessible to all through this blog. But I am sure to write in wine means being involved in wine and  to remain as impartial and objective as possible.

 

Kevin Tang.

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