Chateau Vieux Doumayne 1997, Grand Cru St Emilion.

A wine 25 years old from the humble St Emilion. What a pleasant surprise.

Medium core with wide garnet rim. Demure, fading fruit, with tones of dry flowers chrysanthemum. Smokey and dusty, the second nose starts gamey, with nuances of mushrooms, biscuits, tea leaves, wet forest floor. Nicely structured with melted tannins, lightish 12.5% ABV and moderately linear acidity, the palate leads to a green-peppery, spicy and liquorice finish. Length is adequate and gives a peculiar, leaner 1997 vintage character. This bottle convinces discreet wood treatment and finishes clean. DD84.

Acquired by Pierre Janoueix, Pierre-Emmanuel's father, in 1972, this vineyard is located in the heart of Libourne and is adjacent to a Grand Cru Classé. The terroir of Château Vieux Doumayne is mainly sandy. However, the production seems small, like 4500 bottles produced at most per year, so rare.

Made from 100% Merlot. Using gentle fermentation and ageing 50% new barrels, 50% barrels of wine, to preserve elegance and fruit, without distorting the wine by an excess of tannins.

Going well with a lean steak, it should match well with Serrano ham, most cured meats, 鴨腎and dry Tufo, etc.