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Updated: Jan 27



'We choose wines that have value and soul—bottles that tell stories rather than just filling glasses. Interested in prices in Hong Kong? Contact us via WhatsApp at 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk. Based in Hong Kong, we are fluent in Cantonese and English. Explore small-batch treasures from passionate winemakers. Enjoy excellent value and distinct character—bottles that spark conversations at dinner.'

- Kevin K Tang



Byod Cantenac 2015 shimmers midnight, hinting at violets and cedar. Dark berry and spice notes invite exploration of Margaux’s world.


Take time. Linger over its deep colour, inhale the bouquet, let each sip reveal new secrets. Watch flavours shift from start to finish. Share with a friend over unmarinated steak. Exploring its origins heightens appreciation.


Margaux wines are known for perfumed, floral, and fruit aromas, with elegant structure—a balance of flavour, acidity (like green apple), and tannins (the grip of black tea). This estate’s stony, limestone-rich soil in the commune of Cantenac gives a more masculine version of Margaux, blending tradition and modern precision. The wine ages in 40% new French oak, adding vanilla, spice, and toast. Oak ageing adds depth as the wine matures. Yeast strains enhance Cabernet and Merlot flavours during fermentation. These choices shape the vanilla note in the finish. It may lack the aristocratic elegance of its neighbour, Chateau Margaux, but Byod Cantenac offers power and energy.


Byod Cantenac 2015 glimmers ruby and garnet. Its aroma blends blackcurrant, plum, cedar, and tobacco, showing Bordeaux’s artistry and oak influence. The cedar recalls 2009, but the fresher acidity of 2015 gives this vintage its unique Margaux style.


This wine glides across the palate, revealing dark berries, black cherry, and a hint of liquorice. The liquorice recedes, inviting conversation to linger. Its long finish highlights Margaux’s signature elegance, distinct from the bolder Pauillac style.


Pair with grilled meat, aged cheese, mushroom risotto, or beef bourguignon. Tannins complement rich proteins, while balanced acidity refreshes the palate.


This wine will evolve beautifully through 2030. Cedar notes will deepen into rich truffle aromas over time. Store in a cool, dark place with a stable temperature.

Decant 30 to 60 minutes before serving. Serve at 18°C. Expect flavours of dark berries and black cherry. Vanilla notes are present. The 2015 vintage has concentrated sugars. Its acidity is balanced. Please also cross-reference the progress this bottle has made so far through our tasting notes years back. https://www.dunndunnplus.com/single-post/chateau-boyd-cantenac-2015

This wine works for special occasions or everyday enjoyment. The velvety texture and balanced structure make it versatile and approachable.


'We choose wines that have value and soul—bottles that tell stories rather than just filling glasses. Interested in prices in Hong Kong? Contact us via WhatsApp at 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk. Based in Hong Kong, we are fluent in Cantonese and English. Explore small-batch treasures from passionate winemakers. Enjoy excellent value and distinct character—bottles that spark conversations.'- Kevin K Tang


The 2004 Berliquet offers mellow complexity—softened tannins, leather, tobacco, and dried fruit. It's silky with lingering fruit—the 2018 bursts with fresh cherry, raspberry, and plum. Firmer tannins and bright acidity create an energetic experience. Pairing the right Berliquet vintage can elevate a Chinese meal in Hong Kong, as each wine brings out unique qualities in the food.


Let's Talk About the 2004 with Chinese Food.


The 2004 shines with richer, savoury dishes. Peking Duck: Delicate earthiness and smooth texture balance crispy skin and sweet hoisin sauce. Braised Pork Belly (Hong Shao Rou): Dried fruit notes enhance the caramelised sweetness.Mushroom and Tofu Stir-fry: The mushrooms' full-bodied flavours echo profoundly. The 2004's mellow profile stands up to bold sauces and fatty textures without masking the food. It brings harmony rather than competition.


Now, About the 2018 with Chinese Food.


For lighter, fresher Chinese dishes, I reach for the 2018. It's lively acidity and bright fruit cut through oil and spice, letting the food's flavours shine. Pao Chicken: Cherry notes complement the spicy, nutty sauce, and acidity balances the heat.


What You'll Notice Tasting Them Side by Side.


Tasting these two vintages side by side fascinates; time transforms not only the wine but also its interaction with food. Try a mini-experiment. Following a taste of Peking Duck, sip the 2004, then follow with the 2018. Watch as the flavours shift, each sip revealing new dimensions.


Temperature: Serve both at 18°C to highlight flavours.


Decanting: I do not recommend it, as letting the wines breathe naturally enables you to appreciate them as they open. If you want to experience the complexity right away, give the 2004 about 30-60 minutes to breathe. The 2018 does not need as much time, but a little aeration helps.

I use medium-sized red wine glasses for both—they concentrate the aromas nicely without drowning out the wine or the food.


Final Thoughts on Berliquet and Chinese Cuisine.


The 14-year gap shows how ageing transforms wine. The 2004 offers softness and complexity for robust flavours. 2018 brings vibrancy and acidity for lighter, spicier fare. Choose the vintage that matches your meal. The right vintage elevates your Chinese meal—whether you want mature elegance or youthful energy.


Google Translate

2004年的貝利凱(Berliquet)葡萄酒口感醇厚複雜,單寧柔和,帶有皮革、煙草和乾果的香氣。它如絲般順滑,果香持久;而2018年份的貝利凱則迸發出新鮮櫻桃、覆盆子和李子的芬芳。更緊緻的單寧和明亮的酸度帶來活力四射的體驗。在香港,選擇合適的貝利凱年份葡萄酒可以提升中餐的檔次,因為每款酒都能襯托出菜餚的獨特風味。


讓我們來聊聊2004年貝利凱與中餐的搭配。


2004年貝利凱與口味濃鬱、鹹鮮的菜餚相得益彰。北京烤鴨:細膩的泥土氣息和柔滑的口感與酥脆的鴨皮和甜美的海鮮醬完美平衡。燉肉:乾果的香氣提升了焦糖的甜度。蘑菇豆腐:蘑菇濃鬱的風味與豆腐的鮮美交相輝映。 2004年份的葡萄酒口感柔和,能夠與濃鬱的醬汁和油膩的食材相得益彰,而不會掩蓋食物本身的風味。它帶來的是和諧而非衝突。


接下來,我們來談談2018年份的葡萄酒與中餐的搭配。


對於清淡爽口的中式菜餚,我會選擇2018年份的葡萄酒。它活潑的酸度和明亮的果香能夠中和油膩和辛辣,讓食物本身的滋味得以充分展現。例如,包子雞:櫻桃的香氣與辛辣濃鬱的醬汁完美融合,酸度則平衡了辣味。


並排品鑑的感受。


並排品嚐這兩款年份的葡萄酒令人著迷;時間不僅改變了葡萄酒本身,也改變了它與食物的互動方式。不妨做一個小實驗。品嚐完北京烤鴨後,先啜飲一口2004年的葡萄酒,再品嚐2018年的葡萄酒。觀察風味的變化,每一口都展現出新的層次。


溫度:兩款葡萄酒均建議在18°C下飲用,以充分展現其風味。


醒酒:我不建議這樣做,因為讓葡萄酒自然呼吸能讓您更能欣賞它們開瓶後的風味。如果您想立即體驗其複雜性,建議將2004年份的酒醒30-60分鐘。 2018年份的酒不需要那麼長時間醒酒,但稍加醒酒也有助於提升其風味。


我使用中等大小的紅酒杯來品嚐這兩款酒——它們能很好地集中香氣,而不會掩蓋葡萄酒或食物本身的風味。


關於貝利凱葡萄酒與中餐的最後思考:


14年的年份差異展現了陳年對葡萄酒的影響。 2004年份的酒口感柔和複雜,適合搭配濃鬱的菜餚。 2018年份的酒則充滿活力,酸度較高,更適合搭配清淡辛辣的菜餚。選擇與您的菜餚相匹配的年份至關重要。合適的年份能夠提升您的中餐體驗—無論您追求的是成熟優雅還是青春活力。




'We choose wines that have value and soul—bottles that tell stories rather than just filling glasses. Interested in prices in Hong Kong? Contact us via WhatsApp at 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk. Based in Hong Kong, we are fluent in Cantonese and English. Explore small-batch treasures from passionate winemakers. Enjoy excellent value and distinct character—bottles that spark conversations at dinner.' - Kevin K Tang



Discover the cedar-laced cassis of Citran and its unique character in each vintage. For twenty years, I have tasted Citran with fellow suppliers, fascinated by its year-to-year variation. This guide profiles the distinct personalities of the 2010, 2014, and 2015 vintages, formed by weather, vineyard, and winemaking.


Three Stories in a Glass: Citran Vintages 2010, 2014, and 2015


Weather and Growing Conditions Shaping Each Vintage


Weather during the growing season determines grape development and, ultimately, the wine’s character. Distinct climate patterns throughout vintages influenced grape maturation and quality, with favourable or adverse conditions, such as late frosts or heavy rain, leaving their mark. Noticing these factors increases appreciation for what shaped the Citran vintages discussed here.


The 2010 season featured a cool spring followed by a warm, dry summer, conditions ideal for slow ripening that preserved acidity and enhanced complexity. This vintage presents balanced tannins and vibrant aromas, reminiscent of cranberry compote with subtle notes of white pepper, offering an elegant combination of fruit and spice.

In contrast, 2014 experienced a warmer, more consistent season that accelerated ripening. Grapes developed higher sugar levels and pronounced fruit flavours. This vintage is characterised by a fuller body and softer texture, supported by an underlying structure, rendering it ideal for those who appreciate a round, plush mouthfeel. The 2015 vintage began with a wet spring and continued with a hot summer. Early moisture supported vine health, while the subsequent heat promoted full grape ripeness. This vintage exhibits intense concentration, bold flavours, and a considerable alcohol content exceeding 14.5% ABV. (Château Citran 2010, n.d.) The elevated alcohol level adds to a full-bodied profile and may influence food pairing decisions, introducing an additional dimension to consider when selecting complementary dishes.


Nose and Palate


The 2010 vintage shows elegant structure, bright acidity, and notes of red berry, earth, and spice. Serving in a Burgundy bowl at 16°C improves these qualities. Its balanced fruit and tannins allow immediate enjoyment or ageing.

A review on Nicks.com.au notes that the 2014 Chateau Citran offers a fresh nose with aromas of blackberry and melted tar, along with hints of tobacco that emerge over time. The wine has a character reminiscent of Pauillac. Its fuller body and robust tannins make it especially suitable for ageing. The 2015 vintage of Château Citran offers a fresh, smooth character, with sweetness perfectly balanced by acidity, resulting in an onctuous mouthfeel.


Winemaking Techniques and Their Influence

Winemakers adapt their techniques each year to highlight the qualities of each Citran vintage. Below are the approaches for each vintage. In 2000, cooler fermentations and moderate oak use preserved freshness and acidity, maintaining vibrancy. For 2014, warmer fermentations and 30% new French oak for 12 months intensified vanilla and toast in this fruit-forward wine. The 2015 was aged in a mix of fresh and older barrels, contributing depth and structure, and increasing ageing potential.


Food Pairing Suggestions for Each Vintage

With each vintage’s flavour profile established, the following food pairings are suggested to complement its characteristics.


2010 CItran. Recommended pairings include dishes that balance the wine’s acidity and elegance. Grilled salmon and herb-roasted chicken accentuate the wine’s freshness, while mushroom risotto echoes its subtle spice and earthy notes, forming harmonious combinations that do not overpower the wine.

2014 CItran. To match the 2014 fruitiness, pair it with richer foods such as pork tenderloin, duck breast, or pasta in tomato sauce. Soft cheeses like Brie also complement it well. Consider comparing it with an aged Gouda to explore different flavour dimensions. For a vegetarian pairing, try hearty mushroom pasta or eggplant parmesan, which works with the wine's fruitiness and texture . The 2015 vintage pairs well with foods similar to those of the 2014 vintage.


Ageing Potential and Cellaring Tips

Each Citran vintage has an optimal ageing window, so consider whether to consume or cellar based on its unique character.


The 2010 Citran can be aged for 3 to 5 years to achieve optimal results, allowing further complexity to emerge whilst preserving its elegant structure. (2010 Citran Ex-Château 2022, 2022) Cellaring in a cool, dark environment increases depth over time.The 2014 vintage is best enjoyed within 5 to 7 years and is currently approachable, but some ageing will enhance structure and aromatic complexity. (Château Citran 2014 Technical Sheet, 2014)

 The 2015 vintage’s strong structure is best enjoyed within 2 to 3 years, though further ageing can develop its character. Store in a cool, dark place at a consistent temperature to mellow tannins and integrate intense flavours. (Château Citran 2014 - Vino&Vino, 2024)


 Your Quick Reference Guide

| Aspect               | 2010 Vintage                 | 2014 Vintage                 | 2015 Vintage                 |

|----------------------|-----------------------------|-----------------------------|-----------------------------|

| Weather              | Cool spring, warm dry summer| Warm, consistent heat       | Wet spring, hot summer       |

| Flavor Profile       | Elegant, bright acidity     | Rich fruit, soft tannins    | Bold, intense, structured   |

| Winemaking Style     | Freshness focus, moderate oak| Fruit extraction, new oak   | Extended maceration, mixed oak|

| Food Pairings        | Grilled salmon, herbs       | Pork, duck, soft cheeses    | Braised beef, aged cheeses  |

| Aging Potential      | 10+ years                   | 5-7 years                   | 8-12 years                  | (Château Citran 2010 Technical Sheet, 2010)


Summary

To summarise, the 2010 Citran is elegant and balanced, thanks to a cooler season and careful winemaking. 2014 is notable for its ripe fruit flavours and soft texture, making it easy to approach soon after release. The 2015 is bolder, more concentrated, and well-suited to cellaring, appealing to those who enjoy ageing wines. Comparing these vintages reveals how weather and technique shape their individual personalities, enabling a fuller appreciation of Citran’s craftsmanship.


To facilitate a successful tasting, use a tulip-shaped glass for each vintage to focus the aromas. Taste the wines in chronological order, beginning with 2010, followed by 2014, and concluding with 2015. Record observations regarding appearance, aroma, and flavour for each wine. Organising a comparative tasting improves personal engagement and deepens appreciation for each vintage's unique qualities.


Google Translate

探索西特蘭(Citran)葡萄酒中蘊含的雪松木質香和黑醋栗風味,以及每個年份的獨特個性。二十年來,我與同行供應商一起品嚐西特蘭葡萄酒,並為其每年的變化而著迷。本指南將詳細介紹2010、2014和2015年份西特蘭葡萄酒的獨特個性,這些個性是由氣候、葡萄園和釀造工藝共同塑造的。


杯中三韻:西特蘭葡萄酒2010、2014和2015年份


氣候和生長條件塑造每個年份


生長季的氣候決定了葡萄的生長發育,最終決定了葡萄酒的個性。不同年份的氣候模式各不相同,影響葡萄的成熟度和品質,有利或不利的條件,例如晚霜或暴雨,都會留下痕跡。了解這些因素有助於更好地欣賞本文所討論的西特蘭葡萄酒年份的精髓。


2010 年的年份以涼爽的春季和溫暖乾燥的夏季為特徵,這樣的氣候條件非常適合葡萄緩慢成熟,從而保留了酸度並提升了風味的複雜性。年份的葡萄酒單寧平衡,香氣濃鬱,帶有蔓越莓果醬的香氣,並略帶白胡椒的辛香,呈現出優雅的果香與香料的完美融合。


相較之下,2014 年的年份氣候更加溫暖穩定,加速了葡萄的成熟。葡萄的糖分含量較高,果香也較濃鬱。年份的葡萄酒酒體飽滿,口感柔順,結構均衡,非常適合喜歡圓潤柔滑口感的愛好者。 2015 年的年份以多雨的春季和炎熱的夏季開始。早期的水分滋養了葡萄藤的健康,而隨後的高溫則促進了葡萄的充分成熟。該年份的葡萄酒風味濃鬱集中,口感醇厚,酒精度也相當高,超過 14.5% ABV。 (Château Citran 2010,無日期)較高的酒精度賦予了這款酒飽滿的酒體,並可能影響餐酒搭配的選擇,為選擇佐餐菜餚增添了新的考量。


香氣與口感


2010年份的這款酒結構優雅,酸度明亮,帶有紅色漿果、泥土和香料的氣息。在16°C下用勃根地酒碗盛裝飲用,更能提升其風味。其平衡的果香和單寧使其既適合即刻享用,也適合陳年。


Nicks.com.au網站的一篇評論指出,2014年份的Château Citran散發著清新的香氣,帶有黑莓和焦油的芬芳,並伴有淡淡的煙草氣息,隨著時間的推移而逐漸顯現。這款酒的風格令人聯想到波亞克(Pauillac)產區。其更飽滿的酒體和強勁的單寧使其尤其適合陳年。 2015年份的西特朗酒莊(Château Citran)葡萄酒清新柔順,甜度與酸度完美平衡,口感醇厚飽滿。


釀造過程及其影響


釀酒師每年都會調整釀造工藝,以凸顯每個年份西特朗酒莊葡萄酒的獨特品質。以下是各年份的釀造方法。 2000年份,採用較低的發酵溫度和適度的橡木桶使用,保留了葡萄酒的清新度和酸度,使其充滿活力。 2014年份,採用較高的發酵溫度,並在30%的新法國橡木桶中陳釀12個月,增強了這款果香濃鬱的葡萄酒的香草和烤麵包風味。 2015年份則在新舊橡木桶中混合陳釀,賦予葡萄酒更深邃的層次感和更豐富的結構,並提升了其陳年潛力。


各年份的餐酒搭配建議


在了解了每個年份的風味特徵後,我們建議搭配以下餐酒,以更好地襯託其特色。


2010年西特朗酒莊葡萄酒:推薦搭配能平衡葡萄酒酸度和優雅口感的菜餚。烤鮭魚和香草烤雞突顯了這款酒的清新口感,而蘑菇燴飯則​​與它微妙的香料和泥土氣息相得益彰,形成和諧的搭配,不會掩蓋酒本身的風味。


2014年份的西特蘭(Citran)葡萄酒。為了與2014年份的果香相呼應,建議搭配口感較濃鬱的食物,例如豬裡肌、鴨胸或番茄醬義麵。布里起司等軟質起司也與之十分相配。不妨將其與陳年高達起司(Gouda)進行比較,探索不同的風味層次。素食者可以嘗試豐盛的蘑菇意麵或茄子帕瑪森起司,這些菜餚與葡萄酒的果香和口感十分契合。 2015年份的西特蘭葡萄酒與2014年份的葡萄酒搭配的菜餚類似。


陳年潛力及窖藏建議


每個年份的西特蘭葡萄酒都有其最佳陳年期,因此請根據其獨特的特性來決定是適飲還是窖藏。


2010年份的西特蘭(Citran)葡萄酒可陳釀3至5年以達到最佳狀態,使其風味更加複雜,同時保持優雅的結構。 (2010年份西特蘭酒莊原酒窖藏品,2022年)在陰涼避光的環境中窖藏,隨著時間的推移,酒體會更加醇厚。 2014年份的西特蘭葡萄酒最佳飲用期為5至7年,目前已可飲用,但繼續陳釀會提升其結構和香氣的複雜性。 (西特蘭酒莊2014年技術資料,2014年)


2015年份的西特蘭葡萄酒結構強勁,最佳飲用期為2至3年,但繼續陳釀可以使其風味更加豐富。請將其儲存在陰涼避光處,並保持恆溫,以柔化單寧,融合濃鬱的香氣。

Beneath the amber light of a late afternoon, I swirled a glass of deep ruby wine, its earthy aroma permeating the air. With the initial sip, notes of blackberry and leather emerged, evoking a vivid memory of the vineyard of origin. This collection assembles my tasting notes and essays.

Composed between 2006 and 2013, these essays were originally published on Wine and Beyond and Yahoo, before the site's closure in September 2013. The disappearance of Wine and Beyond represented the loss of a significant chapter in my personal history.

Preserving these articles honours those memories and shares stories that continue to resonate. I have selected essays that best reflect the progression of my experiences in the wine industry, emphasizing pivotal moments and key lessons. Each narrative was chosen for its distinct contribution, whether by illuminating an aspect of wine culture or marking a personal milestone.


Over the years, my engagement with wine has encompassed purchasing, selling to wine companies, lecturing, writing, and, most meaningfully, sharing bottles with friends. I recall an afternoon in Bordeaux when a sudden storm forced us to seek shelter beneath the narrow eaves of an old vineyard cottage. Amidst the rain and laughter, a senior vineyard worker offered us a glass of Merlot he had personally cultivated. This simple moment exemplified the profound connection and shared experience that wine fosters.

 

If these articles resonate, it is due to the influence of my teachers, mentors, peers, friends, students, and especially my editors, who have inspired my passion for storytelling.

Rewritten 15 January 2026.

Kevin Tang

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