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According to our tasting, 2018 is the most fruited since the 2012 vintage. Still, 2018 needs some time to integrate for the best result. It has a classic spectrum frame(red cherries, tomato, spice, hints of black tea and vanilla) pointing to the Sangiovese(50%) that deftly combines with Cabernet and Merlot to form a light-medium-bodied blend with a touch more acidity and liveliness. The composition is balanced with the Merlot(15%), which compensates for better ripeness and body or fatness; Cabernet (35%) supports the density and structure of Sangiovese's bright and aromatic personality. It nurtures from 12-month ageing in quality oak barrels; 10% is new French oak, and 90% is used oak for one year. The winery is very modern. From Panzano, the Gold Basin of Chianti is 360 meters high, hence the structure and acidities, with Super Tuscan stylistics and price for 'the mass'.


If decanted nicely, an entry-level Super Tuscan this young like this 2018 will eventually give a depth of mixed red/black plums and currants lovely fruit flavours. After that, it becomes focused and layered and shows lots of complex herbs, wild brush, leather and rosemary, but behind that is a core of umami like soy, mushroom and salty finish. It is framed by excellent acidity, making it a well-balanced, long, unique Super Tuscan structure. Scores are consistent, like 93AG, 93RP, and 93JS.


Winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt, one of Bordeaux's most renowned winemakers, crafts the wine with Bordeaux influences, including ageing in French oak, 20% new, to produce a luscious mouth-feel. This wine is one of the best values in the marketplace.




It has a youthful appearance(deep ruby, tight rim, blue-purple hue), while the colour is not intense. Delicate nose, good purity of fruit. Some aromatic herbs, such as cassis and cherry, rather than dark berries here. Light hint of oak and cedar wood. Good grip on the palate. It still appears tight and unresolved, but it has good proportions. With ample and ripe tannins, there is pure fruit. I think it is pretty elegant notes of black currant and red currant. It has length. The oak is rather discreet initially, but I get some delicate roasted notes at the end. And it is persistent and keeps lingering for a good while—a pretty long finish. Fine freshness. So, I call this potent wine for further cellaring. It should open up and show its full potential in another two to three years. I like the purity of fruit; I like the freshness of it. One size smaller than the most outstanding vintages. However, it should be a wine that pleases Bordeaux lovers for relatively early drinking—the right time to crack a bottle.


The score is understated and is adequate to convince a reasonably good quality. WE92.This estate is being improved and is owned by a family branch that also holds nearby Château Pontet-Canet. The 2013 is attractive, with ripe fruit and delicious acidity, supported by a firm, dry backdrop of solid tannins. Drink from 2020.




Made through the 1855 exercise, this classed Growth (3rd Growth) of 90 hectares, situated south of Margaux near Cantemerle, is now under the baton of Winemaker Caroline Frey, who uses winemaking techniques similar to those of Chateau Haut Brion to produce her aromatic and elegant Grand Cru Classe. Frey's natural approach, adapted to each plot, plays a fundamental role in the quality of the wines.


In her gravity-fed winery, perfectly mature grapes are sorted carefully before malolactic fermentation in thermo-regulated steel vats. Hence, the fruit quality is higher, and the wines taste gentler. Blended before ageing in 50 - 60% new French oak barrels for 18 months, La Lagune should taste creamy and spicy with a modern twist that is balanced and tailored by the maker for the market. The wine is racked several times to eliminate lees, and for refined ageing, so texture and length always exist. Also, using egg fining to remove harsh tannin particles, La Lagune wines are always elegant. 


Following traditional winemaking methods, Frey maximized and improvised on the blending portion of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot to create consistent complexities and impart peculiar character for each vintage. All three vintages(2001, 2006, 2007) did share a typical secondary and primary profile: floral, plummy, sweet-spiced, peppery, earthy, herbal, graphitic, and smoky, with tones of coffee and coconut. Awarded by us with 93 points, 2001IABV 13.5%) has peculiar freshness with ripe fruit- taste not as intense though- and is thoroughly enjoyable. Awarded GG93, 2006(ABV 13.5%) is elegant with ripe blackcurrant fruit- soft and restrained with resolved tannins-which leads to a gammey and an edging dry finish. Also, a GG93, 2007(ABV 13%) is easy to drink, lightish with ripe red fruit, rare amongst the hotter vintages. 


Always an 'insider's wine', the La Lagune vineyard is certified organic and works towards biodynamic certification. The Frey family also owns multiple Chateaux, including Paul Jaboulet in Rhone and Corton André in Burgundy.

This is a consolidation of the tasting and papers

written from 2006 to 2013. These write-ups had been with the orginal site Wine and Beyond, Yahoo, until the service stopped by Yahoo in September 2013.

 

For years I have been working with wines, either buying it, selling it to wine companies, lecturing and writing about it, and, not unimportantly, enjoying it with friends. If any of the articles on this site are worth reading it is due to my teachers, my mentors, my peers and friends, my students, and in particularly my editors who ignite in me a desire to communicate in wines.

 

Clinging to the trellis of wine, I started to get more and more involved with estates and winemakers, by supporting them with consultancy in communication and marketing. The more I spend my time outside Hong Kong, the more I sense a desire to be part of the international wine family.

 

Writing about wine represents a moment of reflection, curiosity, atitudes and a desire to analyse often hidden structures and history, in an effort to make the wealth of wine accessible to a targetted, and hopefully larger audience.

 

I am not sure if I can wine proivde more accessible to all through this blog. But I am sure to write in wine means being involved in wine and  to remain as impartial and objective as possible.

 

Kevin Tang.

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