Tasting Chablis "7 + 1" Grand Cru
It would have been an almost all "7 + 1" Chablis Grand Cru blind tasting of single vintage 2011. Sourcing limitations dictate the inclusion of 2012 to 2011 for some of the Le Clos produced. For Bougros and Côtes Bouguerots area, we add William Fèvre 2006.
The quality of the tasting samples is excellent. The tasting itself is complicated; the tasting note will be kept conceptual. The 2011 and 2012 Grand Crus can age further to perform even better.
Elegant and compact, the 1st glass gives floral and iodine tones. Linear and taut, it provides a citrusy, saline and spicy finish. The soft palate is edging dry with concentration and a long finish. A matter of stylistic preference. My Last; Group's 12th. It is Vaudesir, Albert Bichot, 2011. Full standard deviation: one First, one Last. It would seem that Group like the big style Grand Cru.
The 2nd glass is surprisingly fruity and relatively simple. Reflecting the nose, the palate is soft on the first sip and becomes almost minty with lots of fruit spices and getting more and more mineral. My 6th; Group's 5th. It is Les Preuses, La Chablisienne, 2012.
The 3rd glass is a big Chablis Grand Cru. Cedary toned; fruit suppressed. On the palate, fruit is masked, with a long spicy and angular finish, which is becoming right before my handing the score sheet, showing its exact Chablis stance! It is my 8th; group's 6th. It is La Moutonne, Albert Bichot 2012.
The 4th glass is tasty, floral, ripe-fruited, orange, orange peel, honey. The palate is rigid as it should and is chalking with a long mineral finish. Nothing wrong with the glass, the nose is not in full congruence with the palate. It will and it does. My 8th; Group's 11th. It has total deviation here: one First; no second; no Last. It would seem that this indicates stylistics preferences. It is Grenouilles, La Chablisienne, 2012.
The 5th glass looks green. It noses and tastes young. Bright green and stone fruited with power, it is edging steely, racy, very balanced, intense and prolonged. It is to last. My 3rd; Group's 9th. It is Valmur, La Chablisienne, 2012.
The 6th glass provides an intense nose, that of orange flower, tangerine, lemon skin on top on lurking sappy cedar. More prominent and round on the palate, it has a tight citrus score with a tangerine and mineral finish. Very intense and long. My 3rd; Group's 9th. It is Les Clos, La Chablisienne, 2011. Surprisingly, there is no Firsts.
The 7th glass is even younger than Les Clos La Chablisienne 2011. Integrated primary tones of jasmine, tea leaves, lemons, tangerine, orange skin and is fragrant. On the palate, it is intense, slightly rigid, unyielding, and is shorter in fruit length than I expected. It should have been a First or a Second if it is aged further. My 9th; Group's 10th. It is Les Clos, William Fèvre, 2011. Surprisingly, one Last!
The 8th glass provides classic citrus, orange fruit and spices. On the palate, it drums on a different tempo: round, intense orchard fruit but not as mineral as one would expect from Grand Cru. My 10th; Group's Last. Les Clos, Raveneau 2011.
The 9th glass stands out with complexities. Lurking behind the citrus fruit are the yeastiness, meat and musky tones and fruit species. On the palate, it is significant, saline with lots of green fruit. My 4th; Group's 11th. It is Les Clos, Dauvissat, 2011. It would have fared much better in my view. There are 3 Lasts.
Fruit of the 10th glass suppresses on the nose. On the palate, it pleases with lime, grapefruit, yellow and stone fruit and is almost minty. An Interesting style, this wine needs time. My 7th; Group's 7th. It is 1Blanchot, La Chablisienne, 2011.
With green tints, the 11th glass provides bright, vivid fruit of excellent quality and intensity. The palate drenches with stone fruit which balances off nicely with the minerality. It would have been better with more cru type of complexities. My 5th; Group's 1st! It is Bougros, La Chablisienne 2012.
I think the12th glass is a crazy Grand Cru. It is just right to drink now. It is my First; Group's 2nd. It is Bougros, William Fèvre 2006.
The last glass gives excellent stone fruit. It feels oxidative in style, albeit with lots of citrus fruit a la style Grand Cru. Balanced and harmonious. My Second; Group's 3rd. It is Côtes Bouguerots, William Fèvre 2006.