Chateau Cos Labory 2009

Deep ruby colour with a tight rim. Reflecting the terroir of St Estephe with a certain uniqueness in style, this 2009

forms from a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Still restrained on the nose, it resembles a lot of Pauillac tones of fruitiness and gives on the nose fleshy plum and cassis fruit. In this sense this wine is simple. Should you fully decant it for some minutes to enable it to reveal its real potential to include tones of the earth and a bit of funk? In another sense, this wine is complicated.

By now even this rigid 2009 vintage gives a full palate of concentration, flavour, textured tannins, dense black fruits, hints of mulberry, cedar and a touch of pepper and roundness — a very slick smooth finish that needs a little more reserve. Surely there are strong supporters for this wine even though some would say there is a shortage of fruitiness by Cru Standard. Price is always sensible. After all, Vintage 2009 is not by now that easy to come by on the market. Probably at the peak of its drinking.

Scores are exceptional: 95GG, 93WE, 93Decanter, 93Falstaff.