Chateau Haut Bergey 2009

The glass has a dark hue, a tight, black-tinged mat with a very opaque core. The first nose offers plenty of ripe dark fruit; the second has other minerality nuances such as oyster shells, briary and crushed stones. If you want power, this is not the wine for you. But if you are looking for Pessac Leognan 's classic elements closer to gravel, tobacco and autumnal leaves, typical of the commune, this is the wine for you.

The scores are pretty high and consistent, such as:

RP 94. A blend of just over 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot (last year, I mistakenly wrote that the balance was Cabernet Franc). The opaque ruby/purple-coloured 2009 reveals notes of scorched earth/burning embers/charcoal, black currants, ripe cherries and lead pencil shavings. Full-bodied and pure with sweet tannin, this is an under-the-radar, high-quality claret to drink over the next 20-25 years. Unfortunately, as powerful and rich as the 2000 and 2010, Haut-Bergey's 2009 is another of the over-achieving, value-priced Bordeaux that is increasingly difficult to find. The estate, which is owned by Helene Garcin (who also owns Clos l'Eglise and Barde-Haut), makes the cult wine Branon from a vineyard adjacent to Haut-Bergey), is situated near Malartic Lagraviere and Domaine de Chevalier. Edited.

JS94. Blueberry and spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a berry, spice and dark cherry aftertaste. Polished. Edited.