Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges 2019

2000 Henri Gouges NSG is the first bottle from the Domaine I have ever tasted. After that, Henri Gouges has become my go-to Burgundy because it is fruity and unpretentious. It does not have the bitter earthiness of most traditional NSG. When matured, Henri Gouges remains round and fruity and balances classy with soft leather, truffle, fur, and game tones. Fruit remains lively- not the chewy, macerated fruits (prune) tough of most NSGs. That bottle of 2000, of basic communal NSG, reflects the consistent taste of the current vintage 2019, a lovely, brilliant crimson colour- a very earthy Nuits nose with some vanilla bean, too. On the palate, smoky, velvet-textured fruit without any tannin, but acids take their place, so the wine is nicely balanced. Not heavy, but an exquisite Pinot expression at the end.

The creation of Domaine Henri Gouges was the culmination of 400 years of family grape farmers, and it is, in many minds, the top domain in Nuits-Saint-Georges. His destems to make wine; he believes that healthy vines produce quality fruit and, thus, more expressive terroir-driven wines. What then is 'terroir-driven' is another issue.

The best score is Wine Spectator 93, which says, 'Ripe yet fresh and pure, this harmonious red boasts cherry, raspberry, floral and spice flavours, with refined tannins and vibrant acidity lending support. The finish persists, echoing the fruit and spice elements. Drink now through 2028.' Edited.