5 Fresh and Tasty Burgundies
Rainy Sunday afternoon. We tasted these 5 Burgundies and we felt like spoil brats.
Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Roy 2014
This Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Roy 2014 is a Pinot based monopole in Mercurey from the cooler Cote Chalonnaise, which is largely responsible for the revived interest in the region as a whole. Clos du Roy indicates that this area used to long to the kings of France. Ripe, forward and round this is a crowd pleaser that shows well at every stage of its life, whether in the bright vibrancy of youth or venerable maturity after a decade in the cellar. On the nose, scents of small red fruits mix pleasantly with spicy and woody aromas, which come from the wine being raised traditionally in oak. This wine is very nicely balanced on the palate. Its rich aromas blend marvelously with its tannins, giving a wine which is greedy and full of body. This wine is very nicely balanced on the palate. Its rich aromas blend marvelously with its tannins, giving a wine which is greedy and full of body.
Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques Moulin-A-Vent Clos du Grand Carquelin 2010, 91-92 WA, 90 WS, 92 AG
Chateau des Jacques's 2014 Moulin-a-Vent Clos du Grand Carquelin from Gamay grapes originates in manganese- and iron-rich sandy soil of reputedly unusual diversity and complexity for its appellation. Its confectionary cast of dark berries; vanilla and cinnamon overlay; and richness of texture make for a striking contrast with the especially bright, high-energy cast. Seamlessly long, it evinces saline and pungent suggestions of things mineral sufficient to stimulate genuine intrigue, not to mention salivation. This should be worth following for half a dozen or more years. Most Moulin A Vent, including this Jadot Chateau des Jacques Clos du Grand Carguelin 2010, is always the strongest amongst the Beaujolais Cru.
Jean Chartron Rully Montmorin 2014, Not Yet Rated by International Critics.
Bright, restrained but clear. Well balanced and judicious oak application well made. Long in the mouth with pleasing acidity; not quite mouthwatering but ineffably enjoyable. This is great value stuff. Should this wine have been evaluated by worthy wine critics, the price should have gone up 2-fold.
Jean Fournier Marsannay Clos du Roy Rouge 2014, 90-92 WA
This very structured and medium bodied red Marsannay from Fourier offers juicy, forward red Pinot fruit that is exceedingly welcoming and engaging. This will drink wonderfully in the early days and remain charming for several years. This proves what Marsannay can do when someone as devoted to their appellation as Fournier is in control.
Louis Boillot Moulin-a-Vent Les Rouchaux 2014, Not Yet Rated by International Critics
This gamay is made in the Burgundian style – destemmed fruit, cold maceration, gentle pressing. And the élevage has a lightness of touch, carried out in a combination of tank, old barriques and some demi-muids. This gives the palate a smooth integration without an overpowering oaky spice. Yet this Moulin A Vent is the most bodied of all we tasted in the afternoon. We found Les Rouchaux t refined and supple.This is stellar wine-making at a very accessible price. This one is perfect served a little chilled that afternoon. Made from a 1.4ha parcel of 50 year old Gamay vines planted on granite soil in the famous Beaujolais cru. A smoky aromatic nose is followed by a lovely smooth palate where tender fruit is entwined with fine silky tannins, reminding you of its Burgundian influence. This refined wine avoids any sappiness or bubble-gum simplicity that lesser Beaujolais can show and instead is pure, fresh and elegant. Ready to drink now. Domaine Louis Boillot’s new venture like this one is a resounding success. Louis is better known and highly respected in the Côte d’Or for his excellent Gevreys and Volnays, made in the Chambolle Musigny cellar he shares with his partner Ghislaine Barthod.
