Tasting Domaine Tortochot’s Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques from 2017, 2018, and 2019 reveals the vineyard’s distinctive character and Burgundy’s changing climate. Brigitte Tortochot leads the estate, using organic farming, full destemming, and cold maceration before indigenous yeast fermentation. Pump-over at the end of each day and two punch-downs per day, mild. Ageing is in medium-toast barrels: 100% new oak for grands crus, 50% for premiers crus, and 25% for village wines. Gentle cellar work preserves each cru’s individuality, allowing the wines to express the true, unforced spirit of Gevrey-Chambertin.
Across these three vintages, the wines show higher alcohol, richer fruit, and greater concentration—signs of warmer seasons. Made to age, they have become fuller and more structured, balancing richness with freshness. Critics have rewarded this evolution with higher scores, while Tortochot stays true to the vineyard’s character.
The 2017 vintage is elegant and subtle, with 13% ABV, bright red fruit, floral notes, and lively acidity. It’s medium-bodied, mineral, and ready to enjoy now, rated 91–93 points.
In contrast, the 2018 (13.5% ABV) is richer and plusher, with black cherry, plum, spice, and a smooth, full texture. It’s bold and generous, enjoyable now but will develop further, rated 92–94 points, though heavier than classic Gevrey.
The 2019 vintage (14% ABV) balances power and elegance, showing both red and black fruit, floral spice, and firm yet smooth tannins. It is structured and lively, with the best ageing potential of the trio, promising complexity for those who wait, and is rated 93–95 points.
All three vintages are available in Hong Kong for $700-$950 HKD per bottle on Wine-Searcher. Scores are strong: 2017 (91–93), 2018 (92–94), and 2019 (93–95), with 2019 standing out for structure and age-worthiness. My price is $795@ for all vintages. Choose based on your taste and patience for cellaring.
For enquiries or orders (minimum 6 bottles, Hong Kong market, can mix), please contact cf.lau@dunndunn.hk or WhatsApp +852 6623 674
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1. Introduction: A Vintage That Haunts
There’s a special anticipation in opening the 2018 Henri Gouges Clos des Porrets—a vintage lauded for its concentration and promise. As I pour the first glass, I find myself wondering: can this celebrated year deliver more than just critical praise? My answer is shaped by a single memory—a bottle from 2000, a modest vintage that proved unforgettable and taught me to look beyond numbers.
2. The Memory of 2000: More Than Numbers
That 2000 Clos des Porrets, opened years ago in my Wan Chai restaurant, remains vivid in my mind—not for its score, but for the way its earthy, balanced character met the moment. Sometimes, the right bottle at the right time redefines what matters in wine.
The magic wasn’t in ratings, but in the constellation of place, people, and timing. It taught me to seek meaning in experience, not reputation.
3. Henri Gouges: A Constant in a Changing Burgundy
Henri Gouges has remained a touchstone for me. Before Burgundy became a playground for collectors, Gouges made honest, terroir-driven wines—never flashy, always solid. The Clos des Porrets monopole stands for consistency and understated excellence, whether tasted at the Hong Kong Wine Society or my own table.
4. 2018 Clos des Porrets: The Allure of Youth
Now, with the 2018 in my glass, anticipation feels different. This vintage has been showered with praise—ripe, concentrated, and, some say, too young to open. Many would lock it away, waiting for the “perfect” maturity. But my experience with 2000 taught me to seize the moment.
The 2018 Clos des Porrets radiates dark cherry, violets, and spice, underpinned by elegant, fine tannins and balanced fruit. Medium ruby in colour, it opens with subtle aromas of baking spice, forest floor, and a hint of mushroom. On the palate, red cherry and raspberry mingle with light oak and bay leaf, all wrapped in high acidity and medium tannins. The wine is dry and finishes with gentle complexity and persistence. Still, as a Premier Cru from a ripe vintage, it lacks the haunting depth or nuance of a great Grand Cru; its youthful structure can feel a touch firm, and the warmth of 2018 may subdue some classical tension and delicacy.
At 13.5% ABV and a WineSearcher Price of HK$700–HK$1,200 (mine cost HK$790), it wears its pedigree confidently—no need to hide behind age. Neal Martin (Vinous) and Allen Meadows (Burghound) both awarded this vintage 91–93 points. For me, the true measure comes from the glass: even the 2000, with its mid-80s score, delivered a memorable experience. The 2018 is brighter, more layered, and in a different league—at this price, it’s a standout. I genuinely think it’s an excellent wine for its class, and one worth seeking out.
Pleasure shouldn’t always be postponed. There’s unique joy in Burgundy’s youth—pure fruit, tension, exuberance. Life is too short to always wait, and maturing a beautiful wine isn’t the only way to reveal its charms. Sometimes, youth alone is a reason to celebrate.
5. What Really Matters: Experience Over Expectation
The 2018 Clos des Porrets isn’t just for cellaring—it’s for enjoying now, for its vitality. My memory of the 2000 reminds me that greatness isn’t always about vintage charts or points, but the alchemy of wine and moment.
Henri Gouges remains a beacon of authenticity in a changing landscape. The 2018—drunk young, vibrant—shows that the best memories are made when we let go of waiting for perfection.
6. Conclusion: The Spell Continues
In the end, every bottle has its story. For me, the spell of Henri Gouges is not just about nostalgia, but about seizing the present—uncorking greatness and sharing it with those who matter, without hesitation or regret. The 2018 Clos des Porrets proves that true pleasure in wine is not measured by age or score, but by the courage to enjoy the moment. That’s the memory worth chasing—and the legacy I hope to pass on, one unforgettable bottle at a time.
For those who wish to experience this vintage for themselves, the minimum order is 6 bottles. Please contact cf.lau@dunndunn.hk or WhatsApp +852 6623 6746 for purchase details.
I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk - Kevin K Tang
In Margaux, where Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot dominate, Chateau du Tertre stands apart for its bold use of Cabernet Franc—a grape as rare as it is demanding here. This focus brings a distinctive aromatic lift and savoury complexity to the wines, making each vintage a testament to both risk and reward. What follows is a concise tasting of four vintages that showcase how du Tertre’s commitment to Cabernet Franc shapes its unique style.
2014 is structured yet approachable, with 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Deep ruby, it opens with restrained dark fruit, earth, and graphite. Cabernet Franc lends suppleness and layers of savoury, herbal, and mineral notes. Partial oak fermentation and 50% new French oak ageing add weight and creaminess. 13.5% ABV. Drinking window: 2020–2035. Scores: WE 94, JS 93, WA 90–92.
Cons: Slightly reserved nose, lacks Margaux opulence, may not appeal to those seeking plush fruit or high complexity.
2013 reflects a challenging, cool year. 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot. At 13% ABV, it’s approachable, with berry, hazelnut, and chocolate notes, medium body, fine tannins, and a leafy complexity from the higher Cabernet Franc. Drink 2017–2028. Scores: JS 91, NM 85, WA 89.
Cons: Lighter colour and body, moderate structure, some green/leafy notes, shorter ageing potential, less finesse than top vintages.
2004 is a classic, cooler Margaux with 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot. Medium ruby, lifted and fragrant with red fruit, cedar, and graphite. Elegant, vibrant, and persistent. 13% ABV. Drink 2009–2026. Scores: JR 16.5/20, WA 89.
Cons: Not as concentrated or powerful as warmer vintages, slightly austere for some palates, subtle complexity rather than immediate fruit.
2003—from Bordeaux’s heatwave—is plush and generous: 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet, with black plum, cassis, dried herbs, and spice. Rich, rounded, velvety, and at its peak now (13–13.5% ABV). Drink by 2023. Score: WA 89.
Cons: Lower acidity and structure, softer tannins, less longevity, some heatwave overripeness, may lack classic Margaux refinement.
Cabernet Franc is a signature—and rarity—at du Tertre. Its strengths are aromatic lift, freshness, and savoury, leafy nuance. Yet it’s notoriously difficult: thin-skinned, disease-prone, early to bud and ripen, and prone to green flavours if not perfectly ripe. Only on select gravelly soils, like du Tertre’s, does it truly shine. That makes these wines, when well-made, especially precious in Margaux.
Du Tertre’s bold use of Cabernet Franc finds echoes at the highest levels of Bordeaux, particularly on the Right Bank. Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion is famed for making Cabernet Franc the star of its blend—often in greater proportion than Merlot—resulting in wines of legendary perfume and refinement. Château Ausone, also in Saint-Émilion, relies on Cabernet Franc for nearly half of its blend, which contributes to its remarkable longevity and depth. In Pomerol, both Château Lafleur and Vieux Château Certan showcase the grape’s potential for complexity and structure when grown in the right soils. Even among the legendary Left Bank first growths, such as Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Lafite Rothschild, small but significant amounts of Cabernet Franc add nuance, though rarely as boldly as at du Tertre.
By joining this tradition—yet making Cabernet Franc a centrepiece in Margaux—du Tertre offers a rare and distinctive expression of the grape, standing out both within its appellation and across Bordeaux.
Market Context
While Wine-Searcher lists the 2014 at HK$380–520, my price is $399 (4 bottles left)—the low end of the range. The 2013, at $320 (13 bottles), is well below the HK$350–450 range. My single 2004 is $399, far below the HK$480–650 market price, and the 2003, at $570 (12 bottles), sits at the lower end of HK$500–700. In my selection, each bottle is a rare chance to experience du Tertre’s evolution—and to taste what Cabernet Franc adds to the soul of Margaux.
