A Journey in Silk: Calon Ségur’s Story in Three Vintages

I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk - Kevin K Tang

(ai photo)

Tasting Calon Ségur 2017, 2018, and 2019 side by side recently felt like opening a window into the soul of Saint-Estèphe—each vintage has its own distinct voice, yet that signature Calon silkiness is the common thread. I found it fascinating to see how not just my palate, but also critics and the market, respond to these differences.

Starting with the 2017, I was greeted by a wine of finesse and classical restraint. The bouquet was bright with red currant and violets, and the palate was light on its feet—almost ethereal for the appellation. The tannins, so fine, seemed to glide rather than grip. Critics clearly appreciated this refined style, with scores clustering in the mid-90s (Wine Advocate and Vinous at 94, James Suckling just a notch higher). The market in Hong Kong reflects the vintage’s modesty, with prices typically between HK$780 and HK$ 1,100 (Wine Searcher, May 2026), but I am offering it at HK$850 with just 6 bottles left—a fair ask for such accessible charm. But it’s not without its shortcomings: compared to its siblings, the 2017 lacks depth and staying power, and the finish, while pure, is fleeting. If you crave power and longevity, this is the vintage to drink young and enjoy for its elegance. However, the fruit length from finish is over 8 seconds, which is pretty impressive.

By contrast, the 2018 makes an immediate impression. From the first swirl, the wine announces itself with richness—black fruit, mocha, and a density that promises years of evolution. There’s a hedonistic streak here, the kind of wine that fills the room and lingers on the palate. Unsurprisingly, critics responded with enthusiasm: 97+ from Wine Advocate and 97s from both Vinous and James Suckling. This critical acclaim has translated into a price jump, and you’ll now find the 2018 in Hong Kong between HK$1,100 and HK$ 1,550 (Wine Search, May 2026), but I have it at HK$900 with 6 bottles left. The trade-off for all this power? The alcohol feels higher, and in its youth, the wine can seem a bit over the top. Give it time—patience will reward you with nuance beneath the opulence. Decanting helps.

Then there’s the 2019, which feels to me like the perfect bridge between its neighbours. The wine combines the energy and lift of 2017 with much of 2018’s fruit depth. There’s a core of blackberry and graphite, and the tannins, though firm, are already threading themselves into the wine’s fabric. Critics fell in line with a trio of 97-point scores, and the price—ranging from HK$950 to $1,350 (Wine Searcher, May 2026)—reflects both its pedigree and its slightly greater availability. I am pleased to offer the 2019 at HK$950 with 30 bottles left. If there’s a fault, it’s only that the structure is still a touch taut; a bit more time will help everything knit together. It might not have 2018’s swagger or 2017’s easy charm, but it offers a compelling middle path and promises a long, graceful evolution. Extended decanting helps.

For those who, like me, are drawn to Calon Ségur for that seamless texture, there are a few alternatives worth seeking out. Pichon Comtesse offers a similarly plush and seductive profile, while Château Canon delivers right bank finesse with creamy precision. Branaire-Ducru is lighter and more aromatic, and Montrose (in the generous years) can match Calon’s polish, though always with a bit more muscle.

Reflecting on these tastings—with critics’ perspectives, market prices, and my own cellar offering in mind—I’m reminded why Calon Ségur continues to inspire such devotion: not just for its power, but for its balance, subtlety, and that unmistakable silkiness, vintage after vintage.