Kanaan Rieslings: 2021 and 2022

I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk - Kevin K Tang

Twisting Tails and Pulling Corks: Kanaan Riesling and the Real Meaning of Wine in Ningxia

Let’s not kid ourselves: planting Riesling in Ningxia is a gamble that borders on audacious, if not reckless. Summer sun bakes the surface gravel at 30 degrees Celsius, shimmering across a landscape where vines fight to keep hold in winds that leave your lips cracked and the earth thirsting for mercy. This is a land where vines battle sunburn and frostbite in the same year. Its soils are as stingy as its climate is extreme, arid, windswept, and unforgiving. If any region looks at Riesling and says, “Not in my backyard,” Ningxia would be the first to raise its hand. But winemaking, as any honest practitioner will tell you, has never been a job for the timid. Sometimes, it takes a little madness to make something memorable.

No Room for Flags in the Glass

New wine regions often emphasise national identity and seek recognition at the earliest opportunity. However, the true value of wine lies beyond patriotism or competition. Reducing wine to a symbol of national pride overlooks its deeper purpose. At its best, wine transcends borders and encourages exploration, reflection, and connection.

The Challenge: Riesling vs Ningxia

Kanaan Winery’s decision to cultivate Riesling in Ningxia demonstrates both courage and ambition. Each vintage is shaped by unpredictable conditions, with no guarantees of success. This approach offers the opportunity to create distinctive wines, push boundaries, and highlight that wine is driven by curiosity rather than comfort.

Kanaan Riesling 2021: For the Crisp and Curious

The 2021 vintage demonstrates restraint and precision. A cooler season produced a wine with vibrant acidity and pronounced minerality, reflecting the region’s rocky soils. Citrus notes of lime and green apple are present, complemented by subtle floral aromas. This wine suits those who prefer fresh, structured, and focused white wines.

Kanaan Riesling 2022: Ripe, Round, and Approachable

In contrast, the 2022 vintage reflects a warmer year, resulting in riper fruit flavours such as peach, apricot, and mandarin. The palate is generous and approachable, with softer acidity and a rounder mouthfeel. This wine appeals to both experienced enthusiasts and newcomers, offering expressive fruit while maintaining the structure characteristic of Ningxia.

Forget the Hype, Trust Your Palate

Ultimately, your personal preference is what matters most. The 2021 Kanaan Riesling is best suited for those who value vibrancy and minerality, while the 2022 is ideal for those who prefer a fruit-forward style. Both wines authentically reflect their vintage and origin, offering genuine stylistic diversity in a challenging region.

When choosing your next wine, focus on quality rather than marketing or novelty. Wine is a dialogue between vineyard, winemaker, and drinker, rewarding those who approach it with curiosity and openness.

Tasting Beyond Borders.

Kanaan’s Rieslings reflect both adversity and ambition. Their distinct character results from vineyard and cellar practices tailored to Ningxia’s challenging environment. Hand-harvesting ensures only healthy clusters are selected, while canopy management protects grapes from intense sunlight and promotes airflow. Drip irrigation provides precise water control, maintaining fruit balance. In the cellar, gentle pressing and cool fermentations preserve acidity and aromatics, and brief lees ageing adds subtle texture. The true achievement lies not in their origin but in their willingness to challenge expectations and invite honest evaluation. Ultimately, the value of these wines is determined by your experience and perspective. Approach tasting with curiosity and an open mind.

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ps: I visited Ningxia years ago with members of the Hong Kong Wine Society and wrote 2 feature articles for a local magazine about that trip. Ningxia was then almost a haven for many international winemakers.