Modest Pleasures: 2013 de Fieuzal Rouge

I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and affordable taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in most urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Want in? Message me on WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk to start your wine adventure. – Kevin K Tang

Composed of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, de Fieuzal Rouge pours a rich ruby colour and greets you with alluring aromas of dark plum and blackcurrant, gently layered with creamy vanilla from new oak. The character of these dark fruits and the elegant, mineral-driven finish reflect the influence of the cool, late 2013 harvest, when a mild autumn allowed Graves' gravelly soils to express both freshness and subtle depth. The palate, plush and perhaps a touch too gentle, echoes these flavours in a ripe, rounded embrace, culminating in a silky, mineral-laced finish. We honour it with a DD91, a testament to its distinction. For food pairings, consider grilled unmarinated lamb chops and roasted Peking duck. The wine's refined tannins and mineral freshness also complement aged cheeses such as Comté or Saint-Nectaire, letting its complexity shine with each bite. Or, just drink it on its own.

Echoing my own impression, Parker awarded it RP 87 and writes, "The 2013 De Fieuzal has an open, quite sensual bouquet with scents of black cherry, wild strawberry and wet stone, an attractive floral aspect developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannins, succulent in the mouth, and polished, with a smooth, harmonious finish. This is commendable for the vintage, even if it lacks a little personality." Edited. Awarded WS89, Wine Spectator writes, "A prickly spine (that is, a lively acidity and firm tannins) provides energy to the core of plum and pomegranate flavours, with a hint of bay leaf. 'Reve,' the French word for 'dream,' describes a light snap of anise on the finish." Edited.

While the 2013 vintage offers elegance and freshness, it is generally lighter and less structured compared to the richer, more concentrated 2010 or 2012 vintages, which benefited from warmer, drier growing seasons. Enthusiasts who appreciate a softer, more approachable expression of de Fieuzal will find the 2013 charming, though those seeking greater power and depth may prefer other recent years.

Drink Now: Enjoy this wine today for its vibrant fruit and refined polish. Hold: Cellar for another 2 to 3 years to reveal deeper, earthy nuances, or enjoy anytime through 2028. No decanting; chill to 18 Celsius and let it breathe in a glass as it warms. Give it some time, as you would when serving your girlfriend, wife, or any family member.