The Spell of the Ordinary: Revisiting Henri Gouges Clos des Porrets 2018

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1. Introduction: A Vintage That Haunts

There’s a special anticipation in opening the 2018 Henri Gouges Clos des Porrets—a vintage lauded for its concentration and promise. As I pour the first glass, I find myself wondering: can this celebrated year deliver more than just critical praise? My answer is shaped by a single memory—a bottle from 2000, a modest vintage that proved unforgettable and taught me to look beyond numbers.

2. The Memory of 2000: More Than Numbers

That 2000 Clos des Porrets, opened years ago in my Wan Chai restaurant, remains vivid in my mind—not for its score, but for the way its earthy, balanced character met the moment. Sometimes, the right bottle at the right time redefines what matters in wine.

The magic wasn’t in ratings, but in the constellation of place, people, and timing. It taught me to seek meaning in experience, not reputation.

3. Henri Gouges: A Constant in a Changing Burgundy

Henri Gouges has remained a touchstone for me. Before Burgundy became a playground for collectors, Gouges made honest, terroir-driven wines—never flashy, always solid. The Clos des Porrets monopole stands for consistency and understated excellence, whether tasted at the Hong Kong Wine Society or my own table.

4. 2018 Clos des Porrets: The Allure of Youth

Now, with the 2018 in my glass, anticipation feels different. This vintage has been showered with praise—ripe, concentrated, and, some say, too young to open. Many would lock it away, waiting for the “perfect” maturity. But my experience with 2000 taught me to seize the moment.

The 2018 Clos des Porrets radiates dark cherry, violets, and spice, underpinned by elegant, fine tannins and balanced fruit. Medium ruby in colour, it opens with subtle aromas of baking spice, forest floor, and a hint of mushroom. On the palate, red cherry and raspberry mingle with light oak and bay leaf, all wrapped in high acidity and medium tannins. The wine is dry and finishes with gentle complexity and persistence. Still, as a Premier Cru from a ripe vintage, it lacks the haunting depth or nuance of a great Grand Cru; its youthful structure can feel a touch firm, and the warmth of 2018 may subdue some classical tension and delicacy.

At 13.5% ABV and a WineSearcher Price of HK$700–HK$1,200 (mine cost HK$790), it wears its pedigree confidently—no need to hide behind age. Neal Martin (Vinous) and Allen Meadows (Burghound) both awarded this vintage 91–93 points. For me, the true measure comes from the glass: even the 2000, with its mid-80s score, delivered a memorable experience. The 2018 is brighter, more layered, and in a different league—at this price, it’s a standout. I genuinely think it’s an excellent wine for its class, and one worth seeking out.

Pleasure shouldn’t always be postponed. There’s unique joy in Burgundy’s youth—pure fruit, tension, exuberance. Life is too short to always wait, and maturing a beautiful wine isn’t the only way to reveal its charms. Sometimes, youth alone is a reason to celebrate.

5. What Really Matters: Experience Over Expectation

The 2018 Clos des Porrets isn’t just for cellaring—it’s for enjoying now, for its vitality. My memory of the 2000 reminds me that greatness isn’t always about vintage charts or points, but the alchemy of wine and moment.

Henri Gouges remains a beacon of authenticity in a changing landscape. The 2018—drunk young, vibrant—shows that the best memories are made when we let go of waiting for perfection.

6. Conclusion: The Spell Continues

In the end, every bottle has its story. For me, the spell of Henri Gouges is not just about nostalgia, but about seizing the present—uncorking greatness and sharing it with those who matter, without hesitation or regret. The 2018 Clos des Porrets proves that true pleasure in wine is not measured by age or score, but by the courage to enjoy the moment. That’s the memory worth chasing—and the legacy I hope to pass on, one unforgettable bottle at a time.

For those who wish to experience this vintage for themselves, the minimum order is 6 bottles. Please contact cf.lau@dunndunn.hk or WhatsApp +852 6623 6746 for purchase details.