Chateau Desmirail 2014

I hunt down value wines with soul—the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and obliterate your assumptions about what "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236747 or email cf.lau@dunndunnn.hk. -Kevin K Tang.

So, Desmirail. It’s a third-growth from the 1855 classification in Margaux—all about elegance and finesse. They’ve got this nice mix of modern equipment and old-school tradition going on, which gives you a wine you can actually drink young. Here’s the thing: their vineyards are spread across Cantenac, Soussans, and now Arsac too. That’s pushed the style lighter with these delicate floral and fruit notes, though honestly, the fruit quality may not quite hit what you’d expect from a classified growth. Not many writers talk about it, so getting a full picture is tricky, but it’s still a solid Margaux.

Now, the vineyard covers 37 hectares and is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and just 1% Petit Verdot. It’s all on gravel, sand, and clay soils, and the vines are mature, over 25 years old. They’re into sustainable farming here, and they age the wine in 40% new oak, which gives you that fruity, toasty, earthy character with some structure.

Look, 2014 was tough, but this wine turned out well. When you nose it, you’re getting black cherries, violet, cedar, and tobacco leaf—really fragrant and floral. Take a sip: it’s medium-bodied with silky tannins, bright acidity, redcurrant, blackberry, those classic pencil shavings, and an earthy finish. Toasty, with some complexity, but I’ll be straight with you—it’s lighter than you’d expect for a classified growth, and the finish is pretty brief. Still, it’s approachable and pleasant.

Want to get the most out of it? Pair it with roasted lamb—skip the marinade—or grilled vegetables to play up those floral and fruity notes. Serve it slightly cool, around 18 °C, or even better, drop it to 16 °C and let it warm up in the glass.

The 2014’s actually fresher and a bit more intense than other vintages. And pricewise? It’s a great value by classified growth standards. It should age nicely for another 3 to 5 years.