Chateau du Tertre 2003–2014: Tasting Notes, Insights, and Market Context

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In Margaux, where Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot dominate, Chateau du Tertre stands apart for its bold use of Cabernet Franc—a grape as rare as it is demanding here. This focus brings a distinctive aromatic lift and savoury complexity to the wines, making each vintage a testament to both risk and reward. What follows is a concise tasting of four vintages that showcase how du Tertre’s commitment to Cabernet Franc shapes its unique style.

2014 is structured yet approachable, with 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Deep ruby, it opens with restrained dark fruit, earth, and graphite. Cabernet Franc lends suppleness and layers of savoury, herbal, and mineral notes. Partial oak fermentation and 50% new French oak ageing add weight and creaminess. 13.5% ABV. Drinking window: 2020–2035. Scores: WE 94, JS 93, WA 90–92.

Cons: Slightly reserved nose, lacks Margaux opulence, may not appeal to those seeking plush fruit or high complexity.

2013 reflects a challenging, cool year. 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot. At 13% ABV, it’s approachable, with berry, hazelnut, and chocolate notes, medium body, fine tannins, and a leafy complexity from the higher Cabernet Franc. Drink 2017–2028. Scores: JS 91, NM 85, WA 89.

Cons: Lighter colour and body, moderate structure, some green/leafy notes, shorter ageing potential, less finesse than top vintages.

2004 is a classic, cooler Margaux with 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot. Medium ruby, lifted and fragrant with red fruit, cedar, and graphite. Elegant, vibrant, and persistent. 13% ABV. Drink 2009–2026. Scores: JR 16.5/20, WA 89.

Cons: Not as concentrated or powerful as warmer vintages, slightly austere for some palates, subtle complexity rather than immediate fruit.

2003—from Bordeaux’s heatwave—is plush and generous: 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet, with black plum, cassis, dried herbs, and spice. Rich, rounded, velvety, and at its peak now (13–13.5% ABV). Drink by 2023. Score: WA 89.

Cons: Lower acidity and structure, softer tannins, less longevity, some heatwave overripeness, may lack classic Margaux refinement.

Cabernet Franc is a signature—and rarity—at du Tertre. Its strengths are aromatic lift, freshness, and savoury, leafy nuance. Yet it’s notoriously difficult: thin-skinned, disease-prone, early to bud and ripen, and prone to green flavours if not perfectly ripe. Only on select gravelly soils, like du Tertre’s, does it truly shine. That makes these wines, when well-made, especially precious in Margaux.

Du Tertre’s bold use of Cabernet Franc finds echoes at the highest levels of Bordeaux, particularly on the Right Bank. Château Cheval Blanc in Saint-Émilion is famed for making Cabernet Franc the star of its blend—often in greater proportion than Merlot—resulting in wines of legendary perfume and refinement. Château Ausone, also in Saint-Émilion, relies on Cabernet Franc for nearly half of its blend, which contributes to its remarkable longevity and depth. In Pomerol, both Château Lafleur and Vieux Château Certan showcase the grape’s potential for complexity and structure when grown in the right soils. Even among the legendary Left Bank first growths, such as Château Mouton Rothschild and Château Lafite Rothschild, small but significant amounts of Cabernet Franc add nuance, though rarely as boldly as at du Tertre.

By joining this tradition—yet making Cabernet Franc a centrepiece in Margaux—du Tertre offers a rare and distinctive expression of the grape, standing out both within its appellation and across Bordeaux.

Market Context

While Wine-Searcher lists the 2014 at HK$380–520, my price is $399 (4 bottles left)—the low end of the range. The 2013, at $320 (13 bottles), is well below the HK$350–450 range. My single 2004 is $399, far below the HK$480–650 market price, and the 2003, at $570 (12 bottles), sits at the lower end of HK$500–700. In my selection, each bottle is a rare chance to experience du Tertre’s evolution—and to taste what Cabernet Franc adds to the soul of Margaux.