Comparing Château Haut Brisson 2018 and 2020

I curate value wines with soul—bottles that tell stories, not just fill glasses. Curious about Hong Kong prices? Let’s talk: WhatsApp 852 66236746 or cf.lau@dunndunnn.hk. Hong Kong-based; Cantonese and English speaking. Small-batch treasures from winemakers who give a damn. Good value. Serious character. The kind of bottles that spark conversations at dinner.

When you pour the 2018 Haut-Brisson, you'll notice its beautiful deep ruby colour with a tight rim. Bring the glass to your nose, and you'll find violets, cherries, plums, liquorice, and a hint of smoke. On the palate, it's fresh and silky, with kirsch notes, dark chocolate, and crushed rock that add gentle bitterness and mineral depth. This medium-bodied wine is enjoyable right now and should remain appealing for the next three years—a perfect example of modern St-Émilion Grand Cru from the Right Bank.

The 2018 vintage marks a milestone for Haut-Brisson. For the first time, they didn't produce a reserve wine, making this the only cuvée and the most sought-after (CHÂTEAU HAUT BRISSON 2018 ST-ÉMILION, 2025). This 90/10 Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend, shaped by Rolland's modern touch and crafted by winemaker Jérôme Aguirre, who trained at Christine Péré-Vergé's vineyards in Pomerol, offers excellent value and shows a bolder expression and more refined finish than previous releases. (Les meilleures bouteilles de saint-émilion : la sélection du « Monde », 2025) What stands out is the increased complexity and depth, reflecting a focused and innovative approach.

The 2018 Haut-Brisson is best enjoyed between now and 2027 for peak freshness. While the cellaring window is technically 3 years to us, the wine will not deteriorate quickly. With age, its flavours should evolve, integrating to reveal more nuanced notes of earthy truffle and softer tannins, while keeping its cherry and plum profile. As a mass-produced wine, it is better enjoyed for its taste and versatility than as an investment. The 2018 vintage is comparable to the 2015, which we tasted previously, and serves well as an approachable food wine.

Let's talk about the scores, because they're imposing. The 2018 Haut-Brisson received a 95 from James Suckling, who called it 'Best Ever. It also earned a strong Wine Advocate 94 rating and a 93+ score from another critic, further confirming its status in the upper echelon of Saint-Émilions. (CChâteauHaut-Brisson 2018 – Abingdon Fine Wine Ltd, 2024) Decanter praised its elegance and structure, while Wine Spectator highlighted its complex layers and ageing potential, reinforcing its reputation amongst collectors. (CChâteauHaut-Brisson, SSt-Émilion Grand Cru, 2018, 2019)

I haven't tasted the 2020 vintage yet, but I plan to, and here's why I'm excited: the 2020 received even higher acclaim than the 2018. Jeb Dunnuck gave it 96 points, describing it as "shockingly good" and "brilliant," with "remarkable purity." It also scored 94 points from both James Suckling and Vinous, and 91 points from Wine Advocate. The low yield of 12.5 hectoliters per hectare contributed to its exceptional concentration and depth. (CChâteauYon-Figeac 2020 Technical Sheet, 2025) Like in 2018, it's composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Both vintages demonstrate the estate's high standards, and these reviews highlight just how remarkable the quality is.

According to Forbes, the 2018 Bordeaux vintage offers firm, somewhat closed aromas of wet earth, liquorice, bramble, and ferns, gradually opening to reveal deeper blackberry notes.

On the palate, it offers a subdued attack of liquorice flavours and finishes with hints of morel mushrooms, making it an excellent pairing for dishes like bean and mushroom stew or steak. Forbes suggests that, while the 2018 vintage is still young and recommended for enjoyment in 5 to 8 years, it already demonstrates the complexity and structure expected of a top St-ÉmilionGrand Cru.

Should you drink it now or cellar it? Both the 2018 and 2020 Haut-Brisson are versatile and can be enjoyed either way. Its approachable style and harmonious flavours make it a delight to savour now. While there may be some potential for price appreciation due to strong demand and limited availability, Liv-ex notes that price movements for 2018 Bordeaux wines depend primarily on their critic scores, with higher-rated bottles generally commanding higher prices, but this is not always the case. Maybe a similar situation applies for 2020 as well. Individual bottles may therefore perform differently, and there is no guarantee of significant gains across the entire vintage. High ratings and critical acclaim might influence future trends, but appreciation has been modest so far. For wine enthusiasts, investing should be more for personal enjoyment than financial gain.