Kirwan 2003

Dark ruby, tight rim. Classic Cantenac and Brane. A masculine Margaux-powerful, concentrated and rich- with subtle fruit freshness and delicate, rancio balance. The tannins are tamed by now. Full-bodied from the great 2003 Merlot.

Consistent score by RP and JS.

94 RP. This estate has been producing impressive wines since the mid-1990s, and much of the credit goes to the talented proprietress, Sophie Schyler. The 2003 Kirwan is a beauty and gets my vote as the finest Kirwan made in the last quarter century. A beautiful bouquet of forest floor, plums, licorice, creme de cassis, and smoke emerges from this opaque ruby/purple-tinged effort. Medium-bodied with plenty of sweet tannin in addition to low acidity, it leaves a beautiful tactile impression that is concentrated yet fresh and lively. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022+.

94, JS. Reminiscent of licorice sherbert dip. Well made if not classic. We could confidently mistake this as right-bank in a blind tasting. Beautiful, bold and polished with blackberry and cedar aromas and flavours. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. New world style. Delicious yet structured.

92/94.