Blanc de Chasse-Spleen 2017

(AI Photo)

Crafted from a dedicated three-hectare plot within Moulis-en-Médoc, Blanc de Chasse-Spleen 2017 is a remarkably poised dry Bordeaux white that offers exceptional value. With a blend of roughly 55% Sémillon and 45% Sauvignon Blanc, it achieves a delicate balance between aromatic freshness and structural depth.

Over time, the fruit has evolved beautifully. What began as crisp grapefruit and green apple notes in its youth has developed into richer layers of ripe white peach, candied lemon zest, orange blossom, and delicate dried stone fruits. Thanks to the high proportion of Sémillon, ageing has also introduced luxurious secondary notes—mature honey, a gentle creaminess, and a subtle touch of smoky oak.

Despite this added complexity, the wine remains vibrant and lively on the palate, with bright acidity that keeps the fruit fresh and energetic, never heavy. The use of bâtonnage, partial oak fermentation, and up to 80% new oak underscores the meticulous focus on quality. Hidden in my warehouse are 12 bottles of Blanc de Chasse-Spleen, long forgotten but shining like gold, and I am genuinely excited to revisit this often-overlooked white.

The palate retains crisp acidity and stony, flinty minerality that gives way to a rounded, silky texture, while maintaining a fresh, modest alcohol level of 12.5% ABV.

Winding back, the winemaking team uses a split vinification strategy to achieve this texture without losing its vibrant fruit profile. The grapes ferment in a mix of temperature-controlled stainless steel vats—which preserve the wine's fresh citrus character—and French oak barriques, up to 80% of which are new. After fermentation, the wine matures on its fine lees with regular bâtonnage in oak barrels (around 50% new oak) for six to nine months before bottling, imparting a delicate oak richness and complex mouthfeel. I find this wine expensively made in the style of crus classes.

This disciplined approach brings a crisp, well-structured wine that consistently earns praise from leading Bordeaux critics, earning aggregate scores around 88 to 90 points as an exemplary everyday Bordeaux Blanc. At your customer price of HK$250 per bottle, it corresponds perfectly with current Wine-Searcher Hong Kong market averages of HK$250 to HK$270, making it an attractive, highly competitive choice for value-conscious white wine lovers.

This wine is clearly made with care and attention to detail. Although many 2017 whites are best enjoyed young, this blanc stands out for its complexity.