Château Lanessan 2014 Revisited

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(ai Photo)

Château Lanessan 2014 makes a bold entrance among Bordeaux’s Left Bank offerings. Long hailed as a “near Fifth Growth,” it boasts a pedigree that outshines its humble Haut-Médoc status. The Bouteiller family, stewards of the estate since the 14th century, consistently crafts Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines that deliver both structure and a racy mineral streak—Lanessan’s calling card.

This note comes from a recent revisit of Lanessan 2014. To do the wine justice and capture its evolution in the bottle, I felt it deserved a fresh look beyond first impressions. In the glass, Lanessan 2014 kept its classic deep ruby hue after 10 years+ in the bottle, a sign of its concentration and youth. Aromatically, it is pretty and understated rather than explosive, with blackcurrant, redcurrant, and a touch of plum set against graphite and earthy gravels. Hints of cedar, tobacco leaf, and violet add classic Médoc detail, while oak remains subtle, letting the wine’s elegance speak.

On the palate, the 2014 shows a restrained, fine-boned style, with petit fruit that is more red-toned than dark. The tannins are firm and slightly drying, bringing a classic Lanessan rigidity. The mineral undertow is ever-present, lending focus and freshness, while the finish, though clean, is not especially long—falling short of the greats but remaining honest and true to the estate’s style.

At around 13.5% ABV, the 2014 Lanessan stays true to the classical Médoc blueprint. The alcohol is balanced and doesn't intrude, letting the wine’s moderate body and mineral definition take centre stage.

Critics have taken notice: Neal Martin (Vinous) awarded it 90 points, describing it as having “plenty of depth and structure.” Jane Anson (Decanter) lauded its “classic Médoc character and impressive value” (89 points), while James Suckling echoed the praise with his own 90-point score, highlighting the wine’s “firm tannins and ripe fruit.”

At HK$208, this bottle offers a rare opportunity: a pedigreed Bordeaux at a price that undercuts the usual Hong Kong range of HK$220–260 (Wine-Searcher). Value seekers, take note—Lanessan 2014 overdelivers for its modest outlay.

In short, Château Lanessan 2014 is a quietly confident Médoc that rewards those seeking finesse and mineral complexity over sheer power or length. It is not the showiest bottle on the table, but its authenticity and value make it a worthy companion for those who appreciate classic Bordeaux understatement.