Kirwan 2011

Licorice, coffee, floral, plum, damp earth and cassis scents pop from the deep-rubied, tight-rimed wine. With rich, fat, round textures and a sweet, ripe, liquorice, chocolate and plum-tinged finish, this fleshy, opulent Margaux wine is already starting to drink well purple and weighty. Kirwan 2011 is still structured yet relatively tamed and can crack right away. Compared to 2010, 2000, 2003 and 2012, which we tried in a roll, this 2011 is lightishly elegant; it gives a mouthful of purple flowers, mineral, red currant, and cherry notes mingle together and carry through the focused finish. Tannins are textured and fresh. 2011 is blend with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Farr mentioned that the Boissenots had consulted here since 2007 (replacing Michel Rolland), and the wine is now less new-oak, less late-picked and less jammy in style. Kirwan is now a wine of classic Margaux elegance. There is good purity and structure, well-rounded tannins, and attractive red fruit. Still, it will need some time to open.

Scores are consistent and good. 92 Tim Atkins; 91 Jesannie CHo Lee, 91 GG.