Montrose 2006, 2007, 2008

This great second-growth vineyard is majestically situated overlooking the Gironde in the Southern section of St Estephe. Montrose is in top form, recently purchased and re-invigorated by the Bouygues family. Hervé Berland, formerly of Mouton Rothschild, is now in charge, and large amounts of money have been spent on stunning new facilities. Montrose's wine is typically a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc and is matured in oak barriques (30% new) for 18 months. So Montrose wines are traditionally profoundly coloured, austere and powerful when young, yet possess a tremendous ageing potential and are quintessential when mature. Consequently, the true style of Montrose constantly forms a juicy topic for wine experts and wine 'amateurs'. However, in my view, recent years saw Montrose give way to almost mandatory long waits and storage to make this wine drinking well- the style after 2006 is friendlier and more accessible.

We have not revised our tasting since HKWS's 10-vintage verticals on Montrose and would reference RP and GG primarily as follows:

• 2006 is the first vintage under new owner Martin Bouygues, who convinced Jean-Bernard Delmas to come out of retirement to produce this wine; the 2006 Montrose is an undeniable success. RP commented as follows. A blend of approximately two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, one-third Merlot, and a tiny dollop of Petit Verdot, the most dramatic difference between 2006 and wines made by the previous administration are that Jean Delmas produces wines with sweeter, silkier tannins. However, analytically, they are as high as those found in the great Montrose vintages of the past. 2006 is extraordinarily elegant and finesse-styled, but it exhibits stunningly concentrated, sweet blackberry and cassis fruit with hints of flowers and minerals. Full-bodied with savoury, expansive mid-palate and sweet, noble tannins, this beauty will benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age and should drink well for 20-25+ years. 94+ RP. Edited.

• 2007 is a controversial wine. GG awarded 96 points and said it is a 'Pure nose, well defined, small black fruits. The expressive palate is structured, with lots of fine tannins that are very tight and need time to soften. Will be lovely after ageing" - 96/100, Gilbert & Gaillard. Parker awarded a mere RP91with RP's comment on the 2007 vintage that 2007 is 'One of the stars of the vintage, the 2007 Montrose boasts a deep blue/purple colour as well as a sweet bouquet of creme de cassis, crushed rocks, and spring flowers. Dense and opulent with silky tannins, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, a long finish, and no hard edges, this beauty should drink well for 15+ years. Drink 2010-2025.' We believe 2007 is a lighter(qualified, still bold) and agreeable Montrose, and we thought it refreshing and friendly and found ourselves agreeing

• RP95 is the score when Parker writes, '2008 is one of the vintage's superstars. This classic Montrose is not as showy or opulent as vintages 2010, 2009 or 2003. Still, it offers a dense purple colour followed by gorgeously sweet black raspberry and black currant fruit intermixed with loamy, earthy forest floor notes, a floral component and a long, full-bodied finish. For vintage 2008, the yields of 44 hectoliters per hectare were slightly less than the 2010s 45 hectoliters per hectare. Forget it for 5-8 years and drink it over the following 20+.' Edited