Vertical Tasting: Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques (2017–2019)

Tasting Domaine Tortochot’s Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques from 2017, 2018, and 2019 reveals the vineyard’s distinctive character and Burgundy’s changing climate. Brigitte Tortochot leads the estate, using organic farming, full destemming, and cold maceration before indigenous yeast fermentation. Pump-over at the end of each day and two punch-downs per day, mild. Ageing is in medium-toast barrels: 100% new oak for grands crus, 50% for premiers crus, and 25% for village wines. Gentle cellar work preserves each cru’s individuality, allowing the wines to express the true, unforced spirit of Gevrey-Chambertin.

Across these three vintages, the wines show higher alcohol, richer fruit, and greater concentration—signs of warmer seasons. Made to age, they have become fuller and more structured, balancing richness with freshness. Critics have rewarded this evolution with higher scores, while Tortochot stays true to the vineyard’s character.

The 2017 vintage is elegant and subtle, with 13% ABV, bright red fruit, floral notes, and lively acidity. It’s medium-bodied, mineral, and ready to enjoy now, rated 91–93 points.

In contrast, the 2018 (13.5% ABV) is richer and plusher, with black cherry, plum, spice, and a smooth, full texture. It’s bold and generous, enjoyable now but will develop further, rated 92–94 points, though heavier than classic Gevrey.

The 2019 vintage (14% ABV) balances power and elegance, showing both red and black fruit, floral spice, and firm yet smooth tannins. It is structured and lively, with the best ageing potential of the trio, promising complexity for those who wait, and is rated 93–95 points.

All three vintages are available in Hong Kong for $700-$950 HKD per bottle on Wine-Searcher. Scores are strong: 2017 (91–93), 2018 (92–94), and 2019 (93–95), with 2019 standing out for structure and age-worthiness. My price is $795@ for all vintages. Choose based on your taste and patience for cellaring.

For enquiries or orders (minimum 6 bottles, Hong Kong market, can mix), please contact cf.lau@dunndunn.hk or WhatsApp +852 6623 674