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Updated: May 20

這款銀翼2013年份葡萄酒源自歷史悠久的木桐酒莊酒窖,散發著清新怡人的香氣。它由長相思、賽美蓉和少量密斯卡岱釀製而成,並經法國橡木桶輕度陳釀,賦予其微妙的烤麵包和香料氣息。入口後,西柚和白桃的香氣撲鼻而來,與花香和柔和的礦物氣息交織融合。口感充滿活力,餘韻清爽精準。市價:港幣900-1200元;我的價格:980元港幣。評分:91分(《葡萄酒倡導家》)。建議現在飲用,也可在未來3-5年內享用。

(AI photo)


Bordeaux may be best known for its great reds, but its white wines are every bit as deserving of attention. Crafted mostly from blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon—with Muscadelle occasionally lending an aromatic touch—Bordeaux whites range from bright and zesty to rich and layered, always defined by balance, freshness, and a sense of place. Their character is shaped by terroir, blending, and varying degrees of oak ageing, resulting in a style that marries fruit purity with nuanced complexity.

Grape Composition

  • Sauvignon Blanc: Offers fresh acidity, citrus, and grassy notes.

  • Sémillon: Adds body, texture, and notes of honey and stone fruits.

  • Muscadelle: Contributes exotic floral and grapey aromas.


Ageing


Many of the top examples see some oak ageing—whether in new or seasoned barrels—adding subtle notes of vanilla, toast, and spice to the fruit, alongside supple texture and depth. The oak's duration and proportion vary by producer and style, further distinguishing each wine.


Curiously, many of the most sought-after Bordeaux whites are produced by châteaux better known for their red wines—the region's great Crus Classés. Thanks to the expertise and resources available at these estates. This careful selection of plots best suited to white varietals, and the prestige that elevates their whites on the world stage. People compared white Bordeaux to Burgundy. This comparison is not very fruitful because they are just different animals, each unique in its own way.


Aile d'Argent 2013.

From the storied cellars of Château Mouton Rothschild, Aile d'Argent 2013 radiates freshness and aromatic intrigue. Crafted from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and a touch of Muscadelle, this vintage is lightly gilded by French oak, lending subtle notes of toast and spice. It opens with a bouquet of grapefruit and white peach, intertwined with floral accents and gentle minerality. The palate is vibrant and energetic, finishing with crystalline precision. Market price: HKD 900–1,200; my price: HKD 980. Rated 91 points (Wine Advocate). Best enjoyed now and over the next 3–5 years.


Blanc de Lynch Bages 2003.

At the heart of Pauillac, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle—aged partially in new oak—offers ripe stone fruits and honey on the nose, with a creamy, harmonious palate. Market price: HKD 1,300–1,600; my price: HKD 610. Around 90 points (Wine Spectator). Drink now; the vintage is fully mature.


Clos des Lunes Lune d'Argent 2016.

From Sauternes' gravelly soils, Lune d'Argent 2016 (predominantly Sémillon with Sauvignon Blanc) is alive with citrus, green apple, and acacia flower. Crisp and refreshing, it's a bargain among Bordeaux blancs. Market price: HKD 180–280; my price: HKD 185. Scored up to 92 points (James Suckling). Drink now or over the next 2–3 years.


Clos des Lunes Lune d'Argent 2018.

The 2018 Clos des Lunes Lune d'Argent blends Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, bursting with lemon zest, pear, and subtle herbs. Fresh and lively, it stands out for value. Market price: HKD 180–280; my price: HKD 195. 90–92 points (Vinous/Wine Advocate). Drink now through 2026.


Domaine de Chevalier 2003 Blanc.

A Graves benchmark, Domaine de Chevalier 2003 Blanc offers a complex symphony of citrus, honey, lanolin, and a wisp of smoke, with a richly textured palate and persistent mineral streak. Market price: HKD 1,000–1,400; my price: HKD 690. 92 points (Wine Advocate). Drink now; fully mature.


La Clarté de Haut-Brion 2017.

Between Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, La Clarté 2017 is creamy, floral, and citrusy, with subtle spice and an elegant finish. Market price: HKD 900–1,300; my price: HKD 710. 93 points (James Suckling). Drink now or hold through 2027.


La Tour Carnet 2017 Blanc.

La Tour Carnet 2017 Blanc brings together Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, lifted by white flowers, citrus, and a hint of toast. Fresh, bright, and harmonious. Market price: HKD 315; my price: HKD 315. 90 points. Drink now to 2026.


Latour Martillac 2017 Blanc.

Latour Martillac 2017 Blanc, a Pessac-Léognan classic, melds grapefruit, peach, and vanilla, with a mineral-driven finish. Market price: HKD 315; my price: HKD 315. 92 points (Wine Spectator). Drink now through 2028.


Le Petit Cheval Blanc 2018.

From the legendary Cheval Blanc estate, the 2018 Le Petit Cheval Blanc is composed primarily of Sauvignon Blanc, barrel fermented and aged in a proportion of new oak. Its ABV hovers near 13.5%. The wine is expressive, offering white peach, citrus, and floral notes, all wrapped in a silky texture with precise acidity and remarkable finesse. Critics such as Vinous and Wine Advocate rated this vintage at 94 points. Enjoy now or cellar confidently through 2029. In Hong Kong, bottles are generally available for HKD 2,500–3,200—my price: HKD 1080.


Le Petit Cheval Blanc 2019 (Magnum).

The magnum format of the 2019 Le Petit Cheval Blanc enhances its vibrant character, blending Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon with a similar oak regimen as the 2018. At 13.5% ABV, it is marked by lively citrus, delicate florals, and a touch of spice. The wine is structured and vibrant, with a long, pure finish. Recent scores for this vintage are in the 94–95 point range from major critics. Drink now, or allow to evolve gracefully in magnum through 2030. The magnum can be found on the Hong Kong market for HKD 5,000–7,500—my price: HKD 2,150.


Les Arums de Lagrange 2021.

Les Arums de Lagrange 2021 is a fresh and lively expression of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle, vinified mainly in stainless steel with a small portion seeing oak. With an ABV around 12.5%, it brims with bright citrus, green apple, and floral notes, delivering a crisp, zesty, and thoroughly refreshing experience. This newer vintage scores around 90 points in early reviews. Drink now through 2026 for optimal freshness. Priced affordably in Hong Kong, a bottle is usually HKD 180–350—my price: HKD 265.


Marjosse 2015 Blanc.

This approachable white from Marjosse brings together Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, vinified exclusively in stainless steel for purity. At about 12.5% ABV, it is marked by grassy freshness and citrus lift, culminating in a light-bodied, clean, and invigorating finish. Critics typically score this wine at 88–89 points. Enjoy now; the wine is at its best in youth. Expect to pay HKD 110–180 per bottle in Hong Kong—my price: HKD 175.


Oliver 2014 Blanc.

The 2014 Oliver Blanc is a harmonious blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, with a measured influence from partial oak ageing. Its 13% ABV frames aromas of lemon and white flowers, while a gentle oak touch brings brightness and balance, finishing with a clean, crisp snap. This wine generally receives 89 points from critics. Drink now; this vintage is fully mature. In Hong Kong, the price typically ranges from HKD 180–360 per bottle—my price: HKD 300.


Smith Haut Lafitte 2013 Blanc.

A beacon among Bordeaux's dry whites, the 2013 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is crafted from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Sauvignon Gris. Half of the wine matures in new oak barrels, resulting in a concentrated, aromatic wine at 13.5% ABV. Exotic fruits and floral notes meld with smoky oak, delivering a full-bodied, textured palate and an impressively long finish. This vintage was rated 93 points by Wine Advocate. Drink now or cellar through 2027 for added nuance. On the Hong Kong market, expect a price range of HKD 1,300–1,900 per bottle—my price: HKD 895.


Valandraud 2019 Blanc.

From Saint-Émilion's innovative Valandraud, the 2019 Blanc is a potent blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, barrel fermented and aged. Its 14% ABV supports a rich tapestry of ripe citrus, stone fruit, and toasty oak. The palate is opulent and layered, with a lingering finish that speaks to both power and poise. The 2019 has been scored at 92–93 points by leading critics. Enjoy now or hold through 2029. Bottles are available in Hong Kong for HKD 980–1,400—my price: HKD 690.


Market prices from Wine Searcher are AI-generated and may vary.



The 2012 Larrivet Haut-Brion is a compelling example of Pessac-Léognan finesse in a challenging vintage. In the glass, it greets you with aromas of ripe blackcurrant, juicy plum, and black cherry, subtly layered with cedar, tobacco leaf, and a whisper of graphite. The palate is medium-bodied, harmoniously balancing vibrant acidity and supple tannins. Flavours of dark fruit mingle with cocoa and gentle toasted spice, courtesy of its maturation in French oak—about one-third of which is new—adding polish without masking the wine’s freshness. The finish is elegant, lingering with fruit purity and savoury undertones.


At 13.5% alcohol, this wine delivers a classic expression without excessive weight. Compared to its peers in the 2012 vintage—an uneven year in Bordeaux that rewarded careful viticulture—Larrivet Haut-Brion stands out for its poise and approachability. While some neighbouring estates crafted more muscular or opulent wines, this bottling achieves harmony and balance, making it accessible in youth yet capable of graceful ageing. With current retail prices in Hong Kong ranging from HK$340 to HK$450, your acquisition at HK$395 sits comfortably within the market, offering solid value for a noteworthy Pessac-Léognan with high-neck levels and excellent storage potential.


The 2012 Larrivet Haut-Brion strikes a fine balance of strengths and limitations. Its medium body, supple tannins, and lively acidity make it approachable and fresh, while classic Bordeaux notes of dark fruit, cedar, and tobacco provide sophistication. French oak—about one-third new—brings subtle spice without overshadowing the fruit. Priced competitively within the Hong Kong market, it offers solid value. In a difficult vintage, Larrivet Haut-Brion stands out for its restraint and balance, perfect for early enjoyment yet structured enough for short- to mid-term cellaring.


That said, 2012 lacks the depth and power of Bordeaux’s top years. Those looking for opulence may find this wine more restrained, with its appeal centred on finesse. While it will age well for some years, it is best enjoyed sooner rather than much later, making it ideal for those who appreciate elegance and value now. Scores are humble in the range of 90.


If you are interested or would like to know more, please contact me directly via WhatsApp at 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk.

Title. Double click me.

Beneath the amber light of a late afternoon, I swirled a glass of deep ruby wine, its earthy aroma permeating the air. With the initial sip, notes of blackberry and leather emerged, evoking a vivid memory of the vineyard of origin. This collection assembles my tasting notes and essays.

Composed between 2006 and 2013, these essays were originally published on Wine and Beyond and Yahoo, before the site's closure in September 2013. The disappearance of Wine and Beyond represented the loss of a significant chapter in my personal history.

Preserving these articles honours those memories and shares stories that continue to resonate. I have selected essays that best reflect the progression of my experiences in the wine industry, emphasizing pivotal moments and key lessons. Each narrative was chosen for its distinct contribution, whether by illuminating an aspect of wine culture or marking a personal milestone.


Over the years, my engagement with wine has encompassed purchasing, selling to wine companies, lecturing, writing, and, most meaningfully, sharing bottles with friends. I recall an afternoon in Bordeaux when a sudden storm forced us to seek shelter beneath the narrow eaves of an old vineyard cottage. Amidst the rain and laughter, a senior vineyard worker offered us a glass of Merlot he had personally cultivated. This simple moment exemplified the profound connection and shared experience that wine fosters.

 

If these articles resonate, it is due to the influence of my teachers, mentors, peers, friends, students, and especially my editors, who have inspired my passion for storytelling.

Rewritten 15 January 2026.

Kevin Tang

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