Updated: Jul 19, 2023
Sociando Mallet is unique in shaping my tasting career: it helps form my concept of quality in wine. What struck me most about Sociando Mallet is their consistency. . Not only are they excellent in the good years, but they are also very well made in the less-good times. While it's always true that not all tasters like the Socialndo Mallet style, its performance, at least in the eyes of Parker et al., is always far better in structure, harmony, elegance and balance than some of the Crus, regardless of the vintage conditions.
Based in the Haut-Medoc just north of St Estephe, Sociando Mallet did not exist at the time of the 1855 classification and had no chance to opt to enter the Cru Bourgeois system. Neither a classed growth nor a Cru Bourgeois, Sociando-Mallet is structurally placed as an anomaly. To me, Sociando-Mallet is just too good to be classified. And this query, do we need classification systems at all, is always on my mind.
The average age of the vines is 35 years, with 55% being Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc; hence there are always complexities and intensities with the wines. The great vineyard sites, which lie on gravel over a clay-limestone subsoil sloping down to the river, are unusual in that they ripen quicker than their more southerly counterparts and are therefore picked earlier. The Chateau’s wines are always matured in 100% new barrels; hence there is always a spectrum of nose and taste.
This is rare for a non-classed growth, but the fact the wines absorb this amount of new oak so comfortably underlines their structure and quality. With 20 years+ of ageing for these 4 off-vintaged sets, all vintages are woven with silky fruit/wood tannins with unique wine structures. Yet all vintage shows peculiar characters. All vintages tasted are rough 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Fruit tones(primary, secondary and tertiary) are overall still balanced.
2002 reflects the fruity character of the vintage. Deep ruby with a medium garnet rim gives a classic Haut Medoc bouquet with a pleasant fruity touch and melted tar and graphite aromas with time. Masculine and earthy, the palate is somewhat grainy, barely drying, and in synthesis with the structure. This 2002 is precisely the kind of good work Sociando Mallet can do in a difficult vintage.
2003 is mega-concentrated. With silky tannins, sappy acidity, and excellent fruit length, the fruit nose is primary mainly, with few signs of evolution. Tannins are sweet. With deep ruby with a medium garnet rim, it noses notes of blackberries, blackcurrants and a pleasant touch of eucalyptus. On the palate, it is fruity, fresh, balanced and persistent finish(tones of cedar, leather, spices).
2007 gives medium ruby red with a tight garnet rim. Roasted notes mark the bouquet with a little fruity expression. Allowed it to breathe, there are notes of ripe, black fruit. On the palate, the wine is slightly creamy and balanced. However, just like the bouquet, it struggles to express itself. It may need more time.
2012 is more opened-up and drinking nicely now; a good light claret. With a deep ruby with purple reflections, it is a refreshing, well-typed bouquet with notes of eucalyptus, mint and a little black tea—fruity and lively mouthfeel. On the palate, the wine has freshness and a floral touch. It lacks flesh, but the structure is there.
2014. Deep, ruby, tight rim. Lots of potential. Intense Blackcurrant tones. Smoky aroma; austere, robust build, dense, of good length, tensioned; the style has remained faithfully Sociando-Mallet, but compared to the primeur pattern, it appears harsher and has lost some of its balance—mineral finish, full-bodied, structured, as intense as the nose. It could taste too low for some. Steadfast.
Deep ruby, tight garnet rim. Rose, a hint of sandalwood from new oak, fruity. A delicate, fresh mix of red/blue/black fruit is on the palate. The aftertaste is exquisite, balanced, structured, with fine tannin tecture and vibrant acidity. It has nice evolution and will continue to age nicely for another ten years, although drinking deliciously now. Now to 2025. This second wine of Château Trotanoy is from the younger vines of the property since 2009. It encapsulates the power and gravitas one associates with Trotanoy with early, effortless accessibility. Usually, a dash of Cabernet Franc adds to the Merlot's majority to form this second wine.
The best score is JS94, lowerest os 90JMQ. Drink time is now until 2035, maybe,
Its first wine, Trotanoy's name, translates to "land too difficult to cultivate," referring to the mixture of clay and gravel that can become as hard as concrete but provides a combination of elegance, depth and intensity to the wines. Château Trotanoy was one of the first recognised Premier Cru sites on the Pomerol plateau, with records dating back to the late 1700s. Since the nineteenth century and even by now, in our view, it has been the best site in Pomerol, second only to Vieux Château Certain. Up until the end of WWII, it was owned by the Giraud family. Jean-Pierre Moueix bought it in 1953, also became the owner of Château La Fleur-Pétrus and would later become the owner of Pétrus.
Consider that you are to take a glimpse of the best second wine from Pomerol to reflect on the best(VCC, La Fleur, Petrus). L'Espérance de Trotanoy is a meaningful second wine to drink. The First
Wine seems to be a favourite of most UK merchants.
Medium ruby with a tight garnet rim, 2009 Poujeaux recalls some complexities(60% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 5% cabernet franc) and 'class' of some excellent crus: inks, lead pencil, graphite, dark fruit(blackcurrants), tones of classy new oak, minerals and tones of animal and game below the lurking dark fruit. The chalky finish gives structure and exceptional grip. Medium-bodied, good length, rounded tannins. Certain sophistication sets this 2009 Poujeaux apart from other humble Cru Bourgeois. Scores are of a high standard in the 92 range, with jS95 as well.
J95 points James Suckling
Stunning nose of cassis, plum and bitter chocolate. Real concentration and a great balance of ripeness, fine tannins and bright acidity drive the complex finish at an astonishing clip. Delicious now, but it will hold. (2/2019). Editrd.
92 points Decanter
I would recommend getting hold of this wine to drink now. It has a lovely signature Moulis-Médoc character of juicy black fruits and nicely worked tannins. It's well balanced, with good freshness and the beginnings of a cigar box and leather. No need to wait to drink this. (JA) (2/2019). EDited
92 points Jeb Dunnuck
Pretty tobacco, damp earth, cedar, leafy herbs, and darker fruits emerge from the 2009 Château Poujeaux, a rich, medium-bodied, impressively concentrated Moulis. With rocking mid-palate depth and sweet tannins, drink this seductive 2009 over the coming decade. (11/2020). Edited.
92 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, graphite and smoky oak aromas are lifted by a floral element. Broad, rich and enveloping, with a restrained sweetness to the pliant flavours of dark berries, spices and graphite. Layered, minerally and long, with firm, building tannins coating the front teeth. Has splendid density and texture for Moulis wine and a great vintage for Poujeaux. This large chateau, among the finest properties in Moulis, was purchased in 2008 by Philippe Cuvelier, who also owns Clos Fourtet. The same team of manager Nicolas Thienpont and enologist Stephane Derenoncourt was responsible for superb 2009s at both estates. (ST) (7/2012)
92 points Wine Enthusiast
Power and structure over extremely juicy fruits, with black plum skins, spice from wood and a firm underlay. (RV) (8/2010)
