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Updated: May 23, 2024


Deep ruby with a tight rim shows some potential. This 2017 gives Pauillac a perfumed black and red currant fruited nose. The firm palate flows fruit-coated tannins; the taste reflects the nose and balances nicely with the red-fruited(strawberries particularly) mid-palate flavours. Stylistically, this 2017 may be preferred by some for the freshness and lighter approach, but in recent vintages, such as this 2017, the style has more punch and longevity. It is a famous claret in Hong Kong and has a reputation for being well-priced. This 2017 used to be the tasting teams' house wine for Bordeaux Claret.


Langoa Barton 2017 is underrated, considering its high-cost performance in terms of excellent and consistent score ratings(WE94, JS94, VindeVert94; JMQ 93 and WS for 93). Some UK merchants would imagine this is a second wine of Leoville Barton. We don't think so, mainly for stylistic reasons: Langoa never resembled the 'elder' brother Leoville. We believe this second wine reasoning is because the Bartons happened to work under the same roof for ages.

This is a superlatively good traditional Saint-Julien, combining power and finesse with the ability to age in the medium term and improve over many years. A blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, it ages 20 months in oak barrels (50% new) and will age for 12 to 40 years, in many cases longer. Foursquare is very stable in quality, and this 2017 can age over ten years even for being a lighter and more elegant vintage.

A balanced blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (47%) and Merlot, with a slight addition of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Like the terroir, the wine is classic in its deep ruby colour and elegant bouquet, combining mixed black fruit, sweet spices and pepper. Round, solid, and tastes harmonious with 18 years behind—good complexity, long finish, delicate palate, stuffed, structured. Excellent value. Medium to medium-deep, ruby-red colour. There is good, fresh acidity & balanced alcohol, but the astringent tannins leave the finish very lean. Silky finish. Still with good fruit. Rare by now.



JS93. 'Wow. This shows wonderful depth and complexity on the nose with blueberries, fresh flowers and hints of stones. It's full-bodied, with ultra-refined tannins and a long, long finish. It gets better and better with age: gorgeous now but will improve for many years. Excellent.'(edited). RP gave 91 and Stazer 90. Quite stable scores.





2011 may be less full-bodied, rich in extracts, yet harmonious—a dark, impressively bright, deep ruby colour. Lovely spice on the nose and is plump for the vintage. With a well-rounded, smooth palate, this has a balanced palate with spicy oak and ripe tannins complimenting the soft fruit. A delicious St Julien, 2011 is made from a lower percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon than most Saint Juliens; this is 58% Cabernet Sauvignon with the rest Merlot and a dash of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged in 75% new oak. 2011 gives pleasure.


Scores are consistent in the level of 94 to 95 and are high, for example:


RP94. This property has been on a qualitative tear over the last generation and produced one of the most successful wines of 2011. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it is broad, rich, medium to full-bodied and dense. In addition, it boasts an inky/purple colour, lots of concentration, silky tannins, and a bigger, richer mouthfeel than any of its St.-Julien peers. The result is one of the stars of the vintage. (Edited)


JS 93. Blackberry and currant aromas with hints of minerals. Whole body, firm tannins and a fresh finish. Chewy and reserved. Just the right amount of fruit covering the tannins. Harmony for the vintage. Better in 2017.


WE94. This is a fruity wine that's abundant and gorgeously rich. There is a pepper edge, touches of new wood and a firm, dark core. Acidity and concentration are already integrated. Drink from 2018. (edited)


VertdeVin 95. The nose is elegant and fresh and offers concentration and power. It reveals notes of blackberry, cassis and slight notes of wild raspberry associated with a hint of red berries, very discreet hints of violet, iris and a subtle hint of nutmeg. The mouth is fruity, juicy, fresh, and well-balanced and offers an acceptable acidulous frame, tension, and refined concentration. On the mouth, this wine expresses notes of black cherry, blackberry and slight notes of wild raspberry associated with delicate touches of small red berries, flowers and a discreet hint of tonka bean, wood/toasted and a subtle hint of almond. Tannins are very discreetly tight. Good length.


Andre Larson 94. Very dense colour. The nose is modern and striking with toasted oak, coffee, minerals, dark berries, cassis and a cigar box. Very concentrated palate with plenty of dark fruit, good quality tannin, fresh and vibrant despite its concentration, elegant fruit and a rich, long finish. Excellent potential. (edited)

Title. Double click me.

Beneath the amber light of a late afternoon, I swirled a glass of deep ruby wine, its earthy aroma permeating the air. With the initial sip, notes of blackberry and leather emerged, evoking a vivid memory of the vineyard of origin. This collection assembles my tasting notes and essays.

Composed between 2006 and 2013, these essays were originally published on Wine and Beyond and Yahoo, before the site's closure in September 2013. The disappearance of Wine and Beyond represented the loss of a significant chapter in my personal history.

Preserving these articles honours those memories and shares stories that continue to resonate. I have selected essays that best reflect the progression of my experiences in the wine industry, emphasizing pivotal moments and key lessons. Each narrative was chosen for its distinct contribution, whether by illuminating an aspect of wine culture or marking a personal milestone.


Over the years, my engagement with wine has encompassed purchasing, selling to wine companies, lecturing, writing, and, most meaningfully, sharing bottles with friends. I recall an afternoon in Bordeaux when a sudden storm forced us to seek shelter beneath the narrow eaves of an old vineyard cottage. Amidst the rain and laughter, a senior vineyard worker offered us a glass of Merlot he had personally cultivated. This simple moment exemplified the profound connection and shared experience that wine fosters.

 

If these articles resonate, it is due to the influence of my teachers, mentors, peers, friends, students, and especially my editors, who have inspired my passion for storytelling.

Rewritten 15 January 2026.

Kevin Tang

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