Updated: Apr 27
I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk - Kevin K Tang
Esprit de Pavie 2019 is a Bordeaux Supérieur that delivers straightforward intensity and modern appeal. Crafted mainly from Merlot, with some Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, it reflects the classic Right Bank blend but remains accessible and uncomplicated. The 2019 vintage brought ripe fruit and density, thanks to a warm, dry season. The wine was matured mostly in used French oak barrels, adding a gentle touch of spice and roundness without dominating the palate. At 14% alcohol, it is bold and polished, with firm tannins and well-integrated oak. Decanting for about an hour helps soften the structure and open up more aroma and flavor.
Vineyards on the south and southwest-facing slopes of Saint-Émilion and the Côtes de Castillon contribute to its ripeness and balance. However, buyers should remember that Esprit de Pavie is not a grand or second wine, but a Bordeaux Supérieur from Gérard Perse’s broader holdings, intended as an everyday alternative to Saint-Émilion. It is not the official second wine of Château Pavie; that remains Aromes de Pavie.
International critics recognize its quality for the category, with James Suckling awarding it 92 points, Decanter giving it 90 points, and Wine Enthusiast rating it 89–91 points. For those seeking a simple, modern Bordeaux with pedigree at a fair price (HK$220–$320), Esprit de Pavie 2019 offers reliable value and easy enjoyment without the complexity of more prestigious labels.
Updated: Apr 26
I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk
A Bordeaux Mystery: The Case of Reignac 2005
Let’s be honest: when I first heard the praise for Château de Reignac 2005, skepticism was my only companion. Entre-Deux-Mers is known for crisp whites, not ambitious reds. Critics had weighed in, but reputations and scores mean little until proven in the glass. This case would be solved on my terms.
Tasting Reignac 2005 is not about fireworks but about subtle clues—a mature hue, a restrained nose, polished yet unshowy fruit (dark cherry; cedar; sweet spices), and a structure (concentrated and dense, with adequate acidity and texture) that whispers of careful design. The real suspense: does this wine transcend its origins, or merely mimic greatness?
Production in 2005 was around 80,000–100,000 bottles—a scale that enables a focus on quality. The blend is typically around 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc, with an ABV of 14%. The vintage itself was legendary, and Reignac made the most of it. Critic timelines put the wine at the tail end of its prime: Parker’s window is 2015–2025, with others in broad agreement. Some claim a few more years for well-cellared bottles, but consensus is clear—now is the moment to solve this mystery, before its shadows fade for good.
Robert Parker calls Reignac 2005 Cru Classé quality—a rare nod for this region. For me, that means a wine that is full-bodied, ripe, generously oaked, and persistent on the finish, and indeed it is. Critics praise its richness, structure, and value, noting it outperforms its origins. Some point to a modern, oak-driven style that may deter traditionalists, and it lacks the nuanced pedigree of the very top crus.
Despite its price—often HK$350–HK$400 per bottle—it’s a bargain by classified standards, an insider’s pick. It is rare to find a wine at perfect maturity, letting you reap all marginal returns, just as the kink curve theory predicts. Reignac 2005 is proof of what passion and expertise can achieve, even in the shadow of Bordeaux’s great names.
I began with doubt, but finish with conviction: Reignac 2005 is a wine of genuine, subtle quality—quietly impressive. The mystery is solved: sometimes, a legend emerges not with thunder, but with a whisper you trust.
I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk
(AI Photo: Robin Hood and his Chasse Spleen 2013)
Chasse-Spleen 2013 is Bordeaux’s Robin Hood—an underdog that draws attention away from grand châteaux. In a blind tasting, it was mistaken for Lafite, revealing hidden depth and the ability to outshine bigger names. The 2013 vintage is considered weak—Robert Parker gave it 84 points, and critics often relegate it to the bargain bin. But critics can miss the plot.
Moderate at 13% ABV, Chasse-Spleen 2013 has structure, but fruit can be uneven or thin, and balance is elusive. Acidity and tannin often overshadow subtle fruit. Its signature is classic pencil lead, graphite, and mineral. Traditionalists find this appealing, but it lacks the freshness and fruit modern drinkers seek. Younger palates often prefer riper, softer wines.
Unlike today’s plush Bordeaux, this is a rebel’s wine. Adventurous drinkers get a different pleasure—layers of graphite and mineral missed by those seeking easy richness. Its acidity pairs well with food, especially where softer wines fail. This isn’t for trend-chasers or status seekers; it’s for those who value subtlety and complexity. If you want a wine that surprises, this outsider delivers conversation and character—not just a label.
While unique, Chasse-Spleen shares some of the style of left-bank estates like Château La Lagune, Cantemerle, and Belgrave—classic restraint and maturity. But its graphite and subtle fruit stand out. Those seeking plush, fruit-driven wines or instant appeal will likely be disappointed. Prestige still matters; Chasse-Spleen isn’t the label for showing off. It’s often recommended, but not poured when it’s time to impress.
Chasse-Spleen 2013 ignores Bordeaux’s prestige game and plays the part of Robin Hood to perfection. It offers character for those who care about the glass, not the label. It’s not for the elite, but for drinkers who value authenticity and complexity, it steals the show from the grand châteaux. For the open-minded, this is Bordeaux’s hidden value—found off the beaten path, with a wink and a flourish, just like the legendary outlaw himself.
