I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk - Kevin K Tang
(AI photo).
Château Larose-Trintaudon consistently delivers reliable quality and, at its best, rivals renowned Haut-Médoc wines such as Château Camensac and Château La Tour Carnet. It remains one of my favourite Cru Bourgeois selections.
Located near St-Julien, the château combines regional elegance with classic Haut-Médoc traits: mineral notes, solid structure, and a smooth, savoury finish with gentle tannins. The wine offers both character and finesse, featuring soft tannins, refined texture, and layers of plum, dark cherry, and subtle spice. Although less powerful than Camensac and La Tour Carnet, it has distinctive flavours that linger.
The 180-hectare vineyard benefits from its size, producing strong results in good years and maintaining quality in challenging seasons through careful grape selection. The soils—fine gravel, sandy gravel, and clay-limestone—promote ripening and add depth. Gravel-rich areas provide good drainage and reflect sunlight, enhancing ripeness and subtle mineral aromas. With 6,600 vines per hectare, competition yields fewer but more flavourful grapes, resulting in deep colour and focused fruit. Vines are on average 28 years old. The blend is 42% Cabernet and 58% Merlot, with an alcohol content of 13-13.5% or higher, which contributes to a fuller, rounder profile. The wine ages 12 to 14 months in a mix of new and used barrels. Its style appeals to traditional British palates, favouring structure, elegance and subtlety over fruitiness, and reflects the classic claret character of balanced, fresh, and gently complex clarets.
The official 2014 tasting notes highlight a brilliant, intense colour with subtle development. Aromas of crunchy damson and black peppercorn dominate. On the palate, wild plum provides freshness, supported by structured tannins and lively acidity, with a lingering smoothness from the alcohol. This classic wine is elegant and refined. Decant for 30 minutes before serving is suggested by the Chateau; it is likely at its peak- that what we believe. Scores are consistently high for a Cru Bourgeois: Decanter 94, Wine Enthusiast Magazine 92, Andreas Larsson 92, and Chris Kissack 94. The 2014 vintage pairs especially well with food such as roasted rack of lamb, Cantonese-style roast goose, herb-crusted beef tenderloin, or duck breast with berry compote. For cheese, mature Comté or aged Gouda enhances the wine's complexity, while earthy mushrooms, Cantonese style or lentil dishes complement its refined structure.
The official 2018 tasting notes describe a dark, intense ruby colour with prominent aromas of ripe blackcurrant and blackberry, balanced by freshness. The palate is fleshy, with well-integrated tannins and a long, smooth finish. Further ageing is recommended to enhance harmony and balance. Although it scored lower than the 2014 vintage, the 2018 Château Larose-Trintaudon received a notable 16 out of 20 from wine critic Jancis Robinson.
The 2018 vintage, side by side with the 2014, highlights their evolution: the 2014 is smooth and at its peak, while the 2018 displays youthful energy and potential for further development. The 2014 is ready to enjoy now, whereas the 2018 will continue to improve with age. Both are suitable for immediate drinking. Château Larose-Trintaudon recommends monitoring the 2018 vintage as it matures to achieve greater balance and smoothness. Serve at 18°C, allow it to breathe, and take time to appreciate its qualities. Still some years to go.
I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk - Kevin K Tang
Twisting Tails and Pulling Corks: Kanaan Riesling and the Real Meaning of Wine in Ningxia
Let’s not kid ourselves: planting Riesling in Ningxia is a gamble that borders on audacious, if not reckless. Summer sun bakes the surface gravel at 30 degrees Celsius, shimmering across a landscape where vines fight to keep hold in winds that leave your lips cracked and the earth thirsting for mercy. This is a land where vines battle sunburn and frostbite in the same year. Its soils are as stingy as its climate is extreme, arid, windswept, and unforgiving. If any region looks at Riesling and says, “Not in my backyard,” Ningxia would be the first to raise its hand. But winemaking, as any honest practitioner will tell you, has never been a job for the timid. Sometimes, it takes a little madness to make something memorable.
No Room for Flags in the Glass
New wine regions often emphasise national identity and seek recognition at the earliest opportunity. However, the true value of wine lies beyond patriotism or competition. Reducing wine to a symbol of national pride overlooks its deeper purpose. At its best, wine transcends borders and encourages exploration, reflection, and connection.
The Challenge: Riesling vs Ningxia
Kanaan Winery’s decision to cultivate Riesling in Ningxia demonstrates both courage and ambition. Each vintage is shaped by unpredictable conditions, with no guarantees of success. This approach offers the opportunity to create distinctive wines, push boundaries, and highlight that wine is driven by curiosity rather than comfort.
Kanaan Riesling 2021: For the Crisp and Curious
The 2021 vintage demonstrates restraint and precision. A cooler season produced a wine with vibrant acidity and pronounced minerality, reflecting the region’s rocky soils. Citrus notes of lime and green apple are present, complemented by subtle floral aromas. This wine suits those who prefer fresh, structured, and focused white wines.
Kanaan Riesling 2022: Ripe, Round, and Approachable
In contrast, the 2022 vintage reflects a warmer year, resulting in riper fruit flavours such as peach, apricot, and mandarin. The palate is generous and approachable, with softer acidity and a rounder mouthfeel. This wine appeals to both experienced enthusiasts and newcomers, offering expressive fruit while maintaining the structure characteristic of Ningxia.
Forget the Hype, Trust Your Palate
Ultimately, your personal preference is what matters most. The 2021 Kanaan Riesling is best suited for those who value vibrancy and minerality, while the 2022 is ideal for those who prefer a fruit-forward style. Both wines authentically reflect their vintage and origin, offering genuine stylistic diversity in a challenging region.
When choosing your next wine, focus on quality rather than marketing or novelty. Wine is a dialogue between vineyard, winemaker, and drinker, rewarding those who approach it with curiosity and openness.
Tasting Beyond Borders.
Kanaan’s Rieslings reflect both adversity and ambition. Their distinct character results from vineyard and cellar practices tailored to Ningxia’s challenging environment. Hand-harvesting ensures only healthy clusters are selected, while canopy management protects grapes from intense sunlight and promotes airflow. Drip irrigation provides precise water control, maintaining fruit balance. In the cellar, gentle pressing and cool fermentations preserve acidity and aromatics, and brief lees ageing adds subtle texture. The true achievement lies not in their origin but in their willingness to challenge expectations and invite honest evaluation. Ultimately, the value of these wines is determined by your experience and perspective. Approach tasting with curiosity and an open mind.
End
ps: I visited Ningxia years ago with members of the Hong Kong Wine Society and wrote 2 feature articles for a local magazine about that trip. Ningxia was then almost a haven for many international winemakers.
I hunt down value wines with soul, the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and challenge your assumptions about what good and affordable taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in most urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Want in? Message me on WhatsApp 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk to start your wine adventure. – Kevin K Tang
Composed of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, de Fieuzal Rouge pours a rich ruby colour and greets you with alluring aromas of dark plum and blackcurrant, gently layered with creamy vanilla from new oak. The character of these dark fruits and the elegant, mineral-driven finish reflect the influence of the cool, late 2013 harvest, when a mild autumn allowed Graves' gravelly soils to express both freshness and subtle depth. The palate, plush and perhaps a touch too gentle, echoes these flavours in a ripe, rounded embrace, culminating in a silky, mineral-laced finish. We honour it with a DD91, a testament to its distinction. For food pairings, consider grilled unmarinated lamb chops and roasted Peking duck. The wine's refined tannins and mineral freshness also complement aged cheeses such as Comté or Saint-Nectaire, letting its complexity shine with each bite. Or, just drink it on its own.
Echoing my own impression, Parker awarded it RP 87 and writes, "The 2013 De Fieuzal has an open, quite sensual bouquet with scents of black cherry, wild strawberry and wet stone, an attractive floral aspect developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannins, succulent in the mouth, and polished, with a smooth, harmonious finish. This is commendable for the vintage, even if it lacks a little personality." Edited. Awarded WS89, Wine Spectator writes, "A prickly spine (that is, a lively acidity and firm tannins) provides energy to the core of plum and pomegranate flavours, with a hint of bay leaf. 'Reve,' the French word for 'dream,' describes a light snap of anise on the finish." Edited.
While the 2013 vintage offers elegance and freshness, it is generally lighter and less structured compared to the richer, more concentrated 2010 or 2012 vintages, which benefited from warmer, drier growing seasons. Enthusiasts who appreciate a softer, more approachable expression of de Fieuzal will find the 2013 charming, though those seeking greater power and depth may prefer other recent years.
Drink Now: Enjoy this wine today for its vibrant fruit and refined polish. Hold: Cellar for another 2 to 3 years to reveal deeper, earthy nuances, or enjoy anytime through 2028. No decanting; chill to 18 Celsius and let it breathe in a glass as it warms. Give it some time, as you would when serving your girlfriend, wife, or any family member.
