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Connoisseur or novice, 2012 is a year for all to enjoy by now. And indeed, it is a joy to experience 2012 Kirwan as a sleeper in the barrel stage to the recent manifestations on the nose and palate of black and red berries – cherry, black currant, and blueberry, enhanced by aromas of spices, pink peppercorns and vanilla. It starts mellow (20% Merlot), then offers the taste buds a rich body and power (68% cabernet), with soft tannins and an acidity that perfectly balances out its silky texture.

There are always some tones of meatiness and toastiness (and some complexities) from the relatively high percentage of balancing grapes, so there are 7% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. However, this percentage level is already one of the highest in Margaux.


Very drinkable now.

The 2012 Kirwan has great USPs of Kirwan. We can think of the following.

  1. Great terroir: the highest point in the appellation, sloping from the Cantenac to Brane; dense gravelly sand.

  2. 8000 vines in a HA

  3. 60-year-old vines; partial 27 to 30 years old

  4. Complimented as the First in the Third Growth (1855 Classification)

  5. 1.5m spacing in the field (not normal 1m) to increase ventilation and hence fruit freshness

  6. New stylistics under the baton of Eric Boissenot

  7. Current stance: more merlot, less balancing grape, less new oak, less late-picked and less jammy in style.

  8. Classic, aristocratic taste: 2012 Kirwan classic Margaux elegance, good purity and structure, well-rounded tannins, attractive red fruit, and is not as meaty as it used to be on the palate.

Scores are not bad.


WE92–94. Barrel sample. This solidly tannic wine is powerful and firm. It's a complete wine, showcasing fruit and tannin elements to give a complex, structured whole. A wine that is for long-term ageing. Edited.


Larson 92. Floral and elegant with wild berries, violet, tobacco and fine spices. Very silky and soft palate, good density of fruit, medium weight but very good length, purity and precision.


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The Grand Puy Lacoste 2013 vintage wine exhibits a deep ruby colour with a tight rim, showcasing the depth expected from late-picked Cabernets. The aroma presents fresh cassis with hints of truffle, liquorice, and cigar box. The palate has a rich concentration of black fruit, complemented by smooth tannins, resulting in a well-structured and wholesome palate. This 2013 bottle is an intense, classical Pauillac wine with a medium body and adequate length at the Cru level. It peaks in the bottle after approximately ten years of ageing and may appeal to those who enjoy robust Pauillac wines due to its tannins and acidity. It has received a score of 92 from R.P., proposed by N.M., and a Vinous score of 92, indicating its high quality.


So, awarded it 92, R.P. wrote that the blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot contributes to the wine's complexity. Most Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and tannins, while the Merlot adds a soft, fruity character. The harvest occurred from 30th September to 11th October at 31hl/ha. The blend was then matured in 75% new oak, introducing fragrant red berry fruit on the nose, such as raspberry, cranberry, undergrowth, and a touch of tobacco. This wine is a classic P.L. style, toned down from previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well-judged acidity, and harmonious cedar and tobacco notes on the finish, showcasing a different structure than recent vintages.


AG awarded 92 and commented that the 2013 Grand Puy Lacoste impresses with its balance and energy. It offers layers of dark, inviting fruit alongside graphite, smoke, tobacco, and liquorice, making it a super classy choice. While it is not a huge wine, it is super-polished and delivers a delicious experience.


J.S. gave 91 and said the 2013 Grand Puy Lacoste is dense and straightforward, featuring floral and black currant characteristics with a medium to full body, fine tannins, and a long finish for the vintage.


WE awarded 92 and opined that this well-made, ripe, structured wine exhibits juicy black-currant fruit, firm tannins, and overall balance. It showcases the best of the year with its fruit-forward yet structured nature. It is recommended to be consumed from 2019 onwards.



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Every time I tasted the bottles, I became contemplative- almost meditative. Sociando Mallet uniquely shapes my tasting career: it helps form my concept of wine quality. But what struck me most about Sociando Mallet is their consistency. Not only are they excellent in the good years, but they are also very well made in the less vintages. While it's always true that not all tasters like the Socialndo Mallet style, its performance, at least in the eyes of Parker et al., is always far better in structure, harmony, elegance and balance than some of the Crus, regardless of the vintage conditions.


Based in the Haut-Medoc just north of St Estephe, Sociando Mallet did not exist at the time of the 1855 classification and had no chance to opt to enter the Cru Bourgeois system. Neither a classed growth nor a Cru Bourgeois, Sociando-Mallet is structurally placed as an anomaly. To me, Sociando-Mallet is just too good to be classified. And this query, whether we need classification systems, is always on my mind.

The average age of the vines is 35 years, with 55% being Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc; hence, there are always complexities and intensities with the wines. The great vineyard sites, which lie on gravel over a clay-limestone subsoil sloping down to the river, are unusual in that they ripen quicker than their more southerly counterparts and are, therefore, picked earlier. The Chateau’s wines are always matured in 100% new barrels; hence, there is always a spectrum of nose and taste.


This is rare for a non-classed growth, but the fact the wines absorb this amount of new oak so comfortably underlines their structure and quality. With 20 years of age for these six off-vintage sets, all vintages are woven with silky fruit/wood tannins with unique wine structures. Yet all vintage shows peculiar characters. All vintages tasted are rough: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc. Fruit tones(primary, secondary, and tertiary) remain balanced overall.


2002 reflects the fruity character of the vintage. Deep ruby with a medium garnet rim gives a classic Haut Medoc bouquet with a pleasant fruity touch and melted tar and graphite aromas with time. Masculine and earthy, the palate is somewhat grainy, barely drying, and in synthesis with the structure. This 2002 is precisely the kind of good work Sociando Mallet can do in a difficult vintage.


2003 is mega-concentrated. With silky tannins, sappy acidity, and excellent fruit length, the fruit nose is primary mainly, with few signs of evolution. Tannins are sweet. With deep ruby with a medium garnet rim, it noses notes of blackberries, blackcurrants and a pleasant touch of eucalyptus. On the palate, it is fruity, fresh, balanced and persistent finish(tones of cedar, leather, spices).


2007 gives medium ruby red with a tight garnet rim. Roasted notes mark the bouquet with a little fruity expression. Allowed it to breathe, there are notes of ripe, black fruit. On the palate, the wine is slightly creamy and balanced. However, just like the bouquet, it struggles to express itself. It may need more time.


2012 is fresher—a deep purple colour with a tight pink rim. Sweetish dark fruit, ripe tannins, decent acidity, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel and stunning cassis fruit in the finish put this wine right amid the best-classified Crus from the Médoc not classified. Go figure. Soft and easy to drink, this wine will still age beautifully for another five years.


2014. Deep ruby with a tight rim. It shows lots of potential. Intense Blackcurrant tones. Smoky aroma; austere, robust build, dense, of good length, tensioned; the style has remained faithfully Sociando-Mallet, but compared to the primeur pattern, it appears harsher and has lost some of its balance—mineral finish, full-bodied, structured, as intense as the nose. It could taste too intense for some. Steadfast.


2017. Deep ruby with a tight rim. Red fruited; turns dark fruited on creation. Almost emblemic- toasty, dense, total, powerful structure, robust tannins, good length; very secure and reliable. It's a medium-bodied Haut Medoc classic at the Cru level. Starts drinking now.

This is a consolidation of the tasting and papers

written from 2006 to 2013. These write-ups had been with the orginal site Wine and Beyond, Yahoo, until the service stopped by Yahoo in September 2013.

 

For years I have been working with wines, either buying it, selling it to wine companies, lecturing and writing about it, and, not unimportantly, enjoying it with friends. If any of the articles on this site are worth reading it is due to my teachers, my mentors, my peers and friends, my students, and in particularly my editors who ignite in me a desire to communicate in wines.

 

Clinging to the trellis of wine, I started to get more and more involved with estates and winemakers, by supporting them with consultancy in communication and marketing. The more I spend my time outside Hong Kong, the more I sense a desire to be part of the international wine family.

 

Writing about wine represents a moment of reflection, curiosity, atitudes and a desire to analyse often hidden structures and history, in an effort to make the wealth of wine accessible to a targetted, and hopefully larger audience.

 

I am not sure if I can wine proivde more accessible to all through this blog. But I am sure to write in wine means being involved in wine and  to remain as impartial and objective as possible.

 

Kevin Tang.

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