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The 2005 Château d'Issan is one that Emmanuel Cruse describes as "the first great wine of the modern era". Almost opaque, it has more Merlot than previous vintages as some plots, so it has more flesh and freshness and displays more fruit intensity on the nose compared to the 2000, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2015 that we had tasted. Blackberry and briary, wilted rose petals, and violets are nicely focused, though you could argue not as complex as other crus of similar standing. The palate is full-bodied with grainy tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a gentle grip. It has a lively finish with a subtle marine influence on the aftertaste. score is high: Anson97, RP96, JS95. Other more prudent tastings award a 93 to 92 level(John Gilman and Vinous, respectfully).  It may taste coarse for some. But its unique, bold style is not repeatable.


Anson 97: A classic Issan that slowly steals up on you and doesn't let go. It feels full of signature appellation character - balanced and effortless, melted tannins and a touch of violet aromatics. It's not going anywhere soon, but this is ready to be enjoyed. A yield of 42hl/ha. Beautiful stuff from owner Emmanuel Cruse. Edited,


RP96. The 2005 d'Issan, the more serious grand vin twin, is a wine with a promising future. With its stunning nose of spring flowers, blackcurrant, blue/black fruits, and an impressively opaque dark plum/purple colour, it is a wine of great potential. The rich, concentrated, and pure mouthfeel, the wonderfully sweet tannin, full-bodied density, and richness, all point to a wine that will only improve with age. This is a wine to be savoured now and over the next 20 years, with its peak expected between 2015 and 2035. Edited.


95 points, James Suckling

 Lots of sweet tea leaves with mineral and currant character. Stone undertones, too. Full body, firm tannins and a tight finish. It is one of the best from here, with beautifully polished tannins. This needs at least three hours of decanting now. It's a wine for the future but delicious now.  (3/2015) Edited.




It is a deep, ruby colour with a light pink rim. On the nose, fresh blackcurrants, prunes, cigar box, herbs, leather plumps, violets and dark chocolate. On the palate, cherries and plum fruit are fixed to a dry and toasty finish. 2011 Cos Labory is not a full-bodied St-Estèphes, possibly due to the relatively high proportion of Cabernet Franc, like 30% in the blend(the other two-thirds are Cabernet and Merlot, as well as a dash of Petit Verdot). It is more structured than 2012. This tasting still applies today.


The wine was fermented in enamel-lined concrete tanks and aged in small barriques (30-50% new) for 18 months, hence its freshness, power, and intensity.


The central part of the 18-hectare vineyard is a long, thin strip located just to the west of Cos d'Estournel, with the rest being near Lafon Rochet. However, in the last ten years, we have seen a move towards a more substantial style, and the wines are now some of the best (and most sensibly priced) in St-Estèphe.


Cos Labory is one of the smallest of the Cru Classé châteaux in Bordeaux. This 5ème Cru Classé St-Estèphe property has been in the hands of the same Audoy family since the beginning of the last century.


Scores are consistent and impressive: GG95, WS93, Falstaff93, Decanter93.




It is a deep, ruby colour with a tight pink rim. This wine has a dense, dark-fruited sweetness and balanced acidity, showing exceptional quality. It is slightly smaller and softer than the 2014 vintage we offered for sale six months ago, but its beautiful balance ensures an enjoyable drinking experience. The forward style lets you appreciate the supple texture, and the multi-layered sweetness, with hints of ripe, dark red, juicy fruits, mocha, chocolate, and dark cherries, is sure to intrigue your taste buds. This wine represents the modern international style, with partial oak fermentation, new oak storage, and high alcohol, but lacks a bit of terroir character at this stage. However, if you look past the alcohol content and the extract (14% ABV from St Emilion!), you'll find a wine of exceptional quality.


Rated RP93, this flagship wine from the Decoster family blends 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It has been consistently successful since the family acquired the 58-acre estate, raising the level of quality. The 2012 vintage displays pure, striking aromatics of blueberry, black raspberry, minerals, and flowers. With a beautiful texture, medium to full-bodied, ripe, and multi-dimensional, this wine dominates its classification and delivers exceptional quality. Drinking well for ten years, this wine promises an exciting future development, ensuring a long-lasting and rewarding experience. The modest yields of 34 hectoliters per hectare from an unusually late harvest (October 22 to November 2) further promise an exciting future development.


Andreas Larsson also awarded it 93 points, describing it as dark ruby-purple with meaty and leathery notes, dry spices, and dark berries in the nose. The palate is dense and structured, featuring dark floral fruit, blackberry, plum, cassis, plenty of grainy tannins, discreet oak, and a long, dark fruity finish. This wine's excellent ageing potential means it will continue to develop and improve over time, making it a valuable addition to any collection.

Title. Double click me.

Beneath the amber light of a late afternoon, I swirled a glass of deep ruby wine, its earthy aroma permeating the air. With the initial sip, notes of blackberry and leather emerged, evoking a vivid memory of the vineyard of origin. This collection assembles my tasting notes and essays.

Composed between 2006 and 2013, these essays were originally published on Wine and Beyond and Yahoo, before the site's closure in September 2013. The disappearance of Wine and Beyond represented the loss of a significant chapter in my personal history.

Preserving these articles honours those memories and shares stories that continue to resonate. I have selected essays that best reflect the progression of my experiences in the wine industry, emphasizing pivotal moments and key lessons. Each narrative was chosen for its distinct contribution, whether by illuminating an aspect of wine culture or marking a personal milestone.


Over the years, my engagement with wine has encompassed purchasing, selling to wine companies, lecturing, writing, and, most meaningfully, sharing bottles with friends. I recall an afternoon in Bordeaux when a sudden storm forced us to seek shelter beneath the narrow eaves of an old vineyard cottage. Amidst the rain and laughter, a senior vineyard worker offered us a glass of Merlot he had personally cultivated. This simple moment exemplified the profound connection and shared experience that wine fosters.

 

If these articles resonate, it is due to the influence of my teachers, mentors, peers, friends, students, and especially my editors, who have inspired my passion for storytelling.

Rewritten 15 January 2026.

Kevin Tang

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