The glass has a dark hue, a tight, black-tinged mat with a very opaque core. The first nose offers plenty of ripe dark fruit; the second has other minerality nuances such as oyster shells, briary and crushed stones. If you want power, this is not the wine for you. But if you are looking for Pessac Leognan 's classic elements closer to gravel, tobacco and autumnal leaves, typical of the commune, this is the wine for you.
The scores are pretty high and consistent, such as:
RP 94. A blend of just over 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot (last year, I mistakenly wrote that the balance was Cabernet Franc). The opaque ruby/purple-coloured 2009 reveals notes of scorched earth/burning embers/charcoal, black currants, ripe cherries and lead pencil shavings. Full-bodied and pure with sweet tannin, this is an under-the-radar, high-quality claret to drink over the next 20-25 years. Unfortunately, as powerful and rich as the 2000 and 2010, Haut-Bergey's 2009 is another of the over-achieving, value-priced Bordeaux that is increasingly difficult to find. The estate, which is owned by Helene Garcin (who also owns Clos l'Eglise and Barde-Haut), makes the cult wine Branon from a vineyard adjacent to Haut-Bergey), is situated near Malartic Lagraviere and Domaine de Chevalier. Edited.
JS94. Blueberry and spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a berry, spice and dark cherry aftertaste. Polished. Edited.
2000 Henri Gouges NSG is the first bottle from the Domaine I have ever tasted. After that, Henri Gouges has become my go-to Burgundy because it is fruity and unpretentious. It does not have the bitter earthiness of most traditional NSG. When matured, Henri Gouges remains round and fruity and balances classy with soft leather, truffle, fur, and game tones. Fruit remains lively- not the chewy, macerated fruits (prune) tough of most NSGs. That bottle of 2000, of basic communal NSG, reflects the consistent taste of the current vintage 2019, a lovely, brilliant crimson colour- a very earthy Nuits nose with some vanilla bean, too. On the palate, smoky, velvet-textured fruit without any tannin, but acids take their place, so the wine is nicely balanced. Not heavy, but an exquisite Pinot expression at the end.
The creation of Domaine Henri Gouges was the culmination of 400 years of family grape farmers, and it is, in many minds, the top domain in Nuits-Saint-Georges. His destems to make wine; he believes that healthy vines produce quality fruit and, thus, more expressive terroir-driven wines. What then is 'terroir-driven' is another issue.
The best score is Wine Spectator 93, which says, 'Ripe yet fresh and pure, this harmonious red boasts cherry, raspberry, floral and spice flavours, with refined tannins and vibrant acidity lending support. The finish persists, echoing the fruit and spice elements. Drink now through 2028.' Edited.
Lavender, butterscotch, truffle, tobacco, earth, liquorice and blackberry scents open to a deep, dense, inky nose. A balanced palate overall (juicy round fruit, excellent structure, ripe tannic edge), the wood brings menthol notes, and spices a little too present for now to some. Bold flavours; long finish. ABV 13.5%. A cru-level Margaux. We tasted 2012, 2004, 2002, and a number of its second wines- 2015 is the best.
Notable scores are:
95-point Vinous. A total pleasure bomb, the 2015 Marojallia is flat-out stunning. This spectacularly rich, flamboyant Margaux is endowed with serious depth to match its deep, unctuous personality. Layers of dark red cherry, plum, smoke, violets and menthol build as the wine opens up with air. Don't expect subtlety or restraint; Marojallia is an extravagantly lush, vivid, modern Margaux. But you will want a second glass after your first and another after that. Marojallia is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot that saw 4-5 weeks on the skins and 100% new oak. Christophe Coupez and Michel Rolland consult. Wow! Tasted three times. Apr 2016,
94JS. Best from here with blueberry, boysenberry and walnut aromas and flavours. Full body. Very velvety textured. Long, long finish. Mar 2016,
93NM. The 2015 Marojallia, from vines between Le Tertre and Monbrison, is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. It unfolds in the glass with sumptuous black cherry and bilberry scents, the oak nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little chalky in texture, and quite muscular towards the finish, but it lingers nicely in the mouth. This has great potential and is one of the best Marojallias I have tasted. Apr 2016, www.eRobertParker.com, Drink: 2020-2038
93WS. Energetic loganberry and blackberry fruit pump along, supported by a fresh-edged bay leaf and iron finish. This has concentration, but it's silky and refined. Mar 2016, James Molesworth.
