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This understated 2016 bottle as an age-worthy claret always shows those classy cassis notes with a secondary bouquet of pencil shavings, herbs and a cigar box on the nose. It may lack the floral dimension one may expect from outstanding wines; on entry, it tastes a bit saline, backward with even more structure than recent vintages we tasted, such as 2013 and even 2011, but its tannins are well-blende which will serve correctly as a severe wine. The palate is well balanced, loaded with Asian spices and black pepper that gain consistent support. Every true wine connoisseur is attracted to Chateau Gloria for that little 'unclassified' and 'mysterious' temperament. And Chateau Gloria's quality, which may have exceeded the more prestigious class growths in St. Julien, surpassed some of the even more learned.


Scores are high and consistent: RP93, JS94, LPB94, Decanter94. Willliam Kelley of Parker et al. wrote about Gloria 2016's almost Pauillac fruit profile(crème de cassis and blackberries mingled with sweet spices and liquorice), structure, and concentration. James Suckling awarded it JS94 and commended the dense and layered fruit, the full body with an appropriate toasty finish. Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW reminded us of the little swirling before notions of blackcurrant cordial, kirsch, and stewed black tea spilling from the glass. Then the wine in the glass will give hints of chargrill and wood smoke, finishing with a spicy kick. Also awarding it 94 points, Anson of Decanter wrote about the rich fruit, the fruit focus and delivery, the texture and the tension on the palate all jazzed up to give lots of liveliness.


A bit on the achievements of the owner Henri Martin, a cooper by upbringing, who took over the property in 1942 and began purchasing vineyards from classed growth properties such as Gruaud-Larose, Talbot, Lagrange and Léoville-Barton. By the mid-1960s, he had 50 hectares spread across the appellation. In 1982 he purchased Château St-Pierre and thus realized his lifetime ambition of owning a Grand Cru Classé property. Henri Martin died in 1991, and Gloria, operated by his son-in-law Jean-Louis Triaud is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25%Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. It aged in a combination of large oak foudres and small oak barrels (50% new). The vines are ancient. Along with big brother Saint Pierre, the quality here has improved massively in the last few years, and this is a top St Julien performer these days.

Updated: Mar 23, 2023


Every true wine connoisseur is attracted to Chateau Gloria for that little 'unclassified' and 'mysterious' temperament. And Chateau Gloria's excellent quality, which may have exceeded the more prestigious class growths in St. Julien, attracted some of them even more learned. But, of course, the character of the understated 2011 bottle as an age-worthy claret always shows those classy cassis notes with a secondary bouquet of pencil shavings, herbs and a cigar box on the nose. It may lack the floral dimension one may expect from outstanding wines; on entry, it tastes a bit saline, backward with even more structure than 2013, but its tannins are well-blende wit, which will serve correctly more than a food wine. The palate is well balanced, and the wine will load with Asian spices and black pepper that gain consistent support. It may need 2+ hours for breathing in bott;e.


Owner Henri Martin, a cooper by upbringing, took over the property in 1942 and began purchasing vineyards from classed growth properties such as Gruaud-Larose, Talbot, Lagrange and Léoville-Barton. By the mid-1960s, he had 50 hectares spread across the appellation. In 1982 he purchased Château St-Pierre and thus realized his lifetime ambition of owning a Grand Cru Classé property. Henri Martin died in 1991, and Gloria, operated by his son-in-law Jean-Louis Triaud is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25%Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. It aged in a combination of large oak foudres and small oak barrels (50% new). The vines are ancient.


Tim Atkins, one of my tasting teachers on the MW course, gives 94 for 2011 Gloria. GG also awarded 92, who wrote on the bottle, 'Dark hue tinged with crimson. Extremely young nose revealing racy ageing and roasted coffee accents. On the palate, wonderful stuffing, full, rich wine with generous aromas. The oak is still very upfront, although the fruit is beginning to show.' Other scores include:

95 points Wine Enthusiast

A powerful wine—its concentrated tannins contrast its underlying juicy fruit. This is a flavorful medley of prunes, dark plums and blackberries; the finish is marked with juiciness. (4/2012). Edited.


92 points Wine Spectator

Mouthfilling and gutsy, a fun, rustic style with chewy plum, fig and blackberry backed by a very briary finish. (4/2012). Edited.


91 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

This estate continues to go from strength to strength. Another sleeper of the vintage, 2011, is excellent, possibly outstanding. Abundant aromas of cassis, forest floor, tobacco leaf and a vague hint of oak follow its dense ruby/purple colour. Ripe for the vintage with excellent texture, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel and a delicious, savoury, broad appeal, this wine should drink well for at least a decade. (4/2012). Edited.





Deep ruby, tight rim. Floral. Ripe nose- raisin, cherry. The palate leads to tones of dark fruit(currants and cherries), spices, black peppery, and is still cedary. Medium, dry finish. An excellent food wine for the mineral touch. Balance and elegance-it is a bottle that gives quite a different taste profile. The wine benefited from bottle ageing and still got some mileage. Also, only some have tasted wine in Hong Kong.


Halfway between Margaux and Saint Julien, it is slightly apart from the D2. The Chateau is close yet sheltered from the main thoroughfares and profited from this discrete and privileged location to produce authentic and honest Moulis wines.


Scores not bad, for example


From the Poujeaux section of Moulis, Dutruch Grand Poujeaux is still family-owned and -inhabited. This is deliciously fruity and ripe; generous tannins firmly balance the juicy black-currant flavour. A concentrated wine that will undoubtedly age well. Edited.


Title. Double click me.

Beneath the amber light of a late afternoon, I swirled a glass of deep ruby wine, its earthy aroma permeating the air. With the initial sip, notes of blackberry and leather emerged, evoking a vivid memory of the vineyard of origin. This collection assembles my tasting notes and essays.

Composed between 2006 and 2013, these essays were originally published on Wine and Beyond and Yahoo, before the site's closure in September 2013. The disappearance of Wine and Beyond represented the loss of a significant chapter in my personal history.

Preserving these articles honours those memories and shares stories that continue to resonate. I have selected essays that best reflect the progression of my experiences in the wine industry, emphasizing pivotal moments and key lessons. Each narrative was chosen for its distinct contribution, whether by illuminating an aspect of wine culture or marking a personal milestone.


Over the years, my engagement with wine has encompassed purchasing, selling to wine companies, lecturing, writing, and, most meaningfully, sharing bottles with friends. I recall an afternoon in Bordeaux when a sudden storm forced us to seek shelter beneath the narrow eaves of an old vineyard cottage. Amidst the rain and laughter, a senior vineyard worker offered us a glass of Merlot he had personally cultivated. This simple moment exemplified the profound connection and shared experience that wine fosters.

 

If these articles resonate, it is due to the influence of my teachers, mentors, peers, friends, students, and especially my editors, who have inspired my passion for storytelling.

Rewritten 15 January 2026.

Kevin Tang

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