An exceptional wine by Xavier Vignonn revealing the expression of the terroirs, the grape varieties and the importance of time
Writing a tasting note for La Réserve X XII XV is not easy. It is made from four terroirs in Châteauneuf du Pape that have been carefully selected for their incredible potential. Thus, this vintage is comprised of grapes that come from century-old Grenache, Vaccarèse, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Terret Noir and Muscardin vines from La Crau, Les Galets roulés, les Urgoniens and Les Sables. The different grape varieties for this Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine are planted on the same plot.Grenache, Vaccarèse, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Terret Noir and Muscardin.
The vintages
La Réserve X XII XV comprises a blend of three different vintages: 2010, 2012 and 2015. The 2010 vintage makes up for 42% of the final mix, bringing acidity and expressing the characteristics of the terroir.
The 2012 vintage makes up 22% of the final blend, exuding varietal expression, fruitiness, and excellent mineral intensity.
The 2015 vintage makes up for 36% of the final blend and provides a beautiful expression of the grape varieties, adding to the complexity of this wine. It gives a salty taste to the finish.
The grapes were sorted and destemmed directly on the vine during the manual harvest. The grapes are rarely handled during the vinification process, even during fermentation, to preserve the aromas' softness and the tannins' nobility.
The 2010 wines were aged in the following containers before being blended in a stainless steel tank to complete and finalise their ageing period: 20% in French oak barrels for 44 months, 20% in concrete tanks for 36 months, 30% in large barrels for 46 months and 30% in demi-muid barrels for 44 months. The 2012 vintage was aged in the following containers for 36 months: 25% in concrete tanks, 25% in demi-muid barrels, 20% in new oak barrels and 20% in first-fill oak barrels. The 2015 vintage was aged entirely in amphora for eight months to preserve the expression of both the grape and the terroir while giving a lovely suppleness to the tannins.
Updated: Aug 10, 2023
This tasting note was recorded briefly in a walkover tasting with Xavier Vignon in a sun-drenched tasting wine room in Wanchai in April 2023. Surprisingly, 1972 still got the cool and fresh fruit- ample tannins tamed still with bite. Rare. On Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2000 is an enjoyable, harmonious piece of bending- natural fruit, balanced, textured, fine tannins, structured, intense, balanced, and good length. 2001 is superior to 2000 and different- showing the class what a stunning vintage could be-there is a greater concentration of flavour, ripeness and uniqueness of character.
All wines score, impressively, 96DD points.
This 100 per cent Grenache was sourced from 15 parcels spread across the Châteauneuf-Du-Pape appellation and produced uniquely; After the wine was put in a new French oak barrel, the entire barrel was then submerged into a concrete tank filled with Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine. This submerged ageing process is Xavier Vignon's interpretation of the underwater ageing process that some people experiment with, and the result is that there's no exposure to oxygen whatsoever. The wine was kept like this for five years, with no racking or topping required since there's no evaporation.
96+ Points, Wine Advocate
This method needs to be more documented. Parker admitted that he requested more explanation from Xavier Vignon, writing, "Regarding the 2010 Châteauneuf du Pape Arcane Le Pape, I had to have Xavier explain how he made it about three times before I understood. The wine is 100% Grenache, from 15 different parcels that were put into a barrel, then the entire barrel was put into a concrete tank, which was then filled with wine. This is a take on the underwater ageing process that some people experiment with, resulting in no exposure to oxygen whatsoever. The wine was kept like this for five years, with no racking or topping (since there's no evaporation, it never needed to be topped). Inky purple, with a sensational youthful bouquet of crushed flowers, blueberries, blackberries, cured meats and spice, hits the palate with incredible richness, a thick, unctuous mid-palate and ripe yet present tannin. It's a singular, exotic beauty that I wish every reader could taste! I do not know how it will age, given its crazy elevate, yet I suspect it will benefit from short-term cellaring and keep for two to three decades! Hats to the team here for having the guts to pull something like this off!"(Edited).
96 Points, James Sucking
JS writes not in details, saying "Some age here. This has a vibrant, ripe, complex feel with a sleek, supple stream of deeply fleshy, ripe dark-plum and berry flavours. The tannins are so regal. Wow!"(Edited)
95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
"A 100% Grenache sourced from numerous terroirs in the appellation, the 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Arcane Le Pape offers a lovely bouquet of blackberries, saddle leather, garrigue, and forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and silky, it's still tight and backwards on the palate, with good acidity, building tannin, and a great finish. It will hit prime time in 2-3 years and keep for a decade."(Edited)
